Ralph Lauren Peering Oxfords – made by Edward Green

Ralph Lauren Garran Monkstrap Boots

Ralph Lauren Gifford Ankle Boots – made from shell cordovan

And some made in USA loafers. I’ve got a couple pairs of these and they’re a great value.

From Field and Stream, 1916.

Superior Labor.

Filson Italy.

Sea Bags.

Engineered Garments.

Waste(twice) by Superior Labor.

RRL

The other new bag is one from the UK company Brady, which has specialized in making gear for the field for a very long time.

P.S. The Alden suede bluchers with crepe soles from last year are currently on sale for $259.

And here’s a recap of stores with an online presence that have received SS10 goods in from Engineered Garments and Woolrich Woolen Mills. It can get difficult to keep tabs on all of this, so I hope this will help you in tracking down a certain piece that you’ve been looking for.

Engineered Garments

• Legion – http://legionlosangeles.blogspot.com/2010/02/engineered-garments-ss-10.html
• Mohawk – http://www.mohawkgeneralstore.net/blog/?p=1046
• Context – http://www.contextclothing.com/brand.php?brand=Engineered%20Garments
• Tres Bien – http://www.tresbienshop.net/en/grp/engineeredgarments-all-items.php
• Hip Leeds – http://www.hipleeds.com/engineered+garments
• Bureau – http://www.thebureaubelfast.com/shop/brand/52/engineered-garments/
• Odin – http://odinnewyork.com/search.asp?Mode=Designer&DesignerID=8
• KIN – http://knowitnothing.blogspot.com/2010/03/engineered-garments-ss10.html
• Garbstore – http://www.garbstore.com/Shop-Online/?brandID=46
• Barney’s – http://www.barneys.com/Mens/MENS04,default,sc.html?prefn1=designer&prefv1=Engineered%20Garments
• Steven Alan – http://www.stevenalan.com/manufacturers.php?manufacturerid=57&tagid=0
• Nomad – http://www.nomadshop.net/main/?cat=9
• Canvas – http://www.canvasarttalk.com/2010/02/new-arrivals-engineered-garments-sp10/
• American Rag – http://www.farfetch.com/shopping/men/engineered-garments/search/schid-656e67696e6565726564/items.aspx

Woolrich Woolen Mills

• Blackbird – http://www.blackbirdballard.com/Woolrich_Woolen_Mills_Mens.html
• Context – http://www.contextclothing.com/brand.php?brand=Woolrich%20Woolen%20Mills
• Hip Leeds – http://www.hipleeds.com/woolrich+woolen+mills
• Odin – http://odinnewyork.com/search.asp?Mode=Designer&DesignerID=25
• Oi Polloi – http://www.oipolloi.com/brands/WoolenMillsbyWoolrich-139.html
• Coggles – http://www.coggles.com/store/list/Woolen%20Mills%20By%20Woolrich/222/M
• Steven Alan – http://www.stevenalan.com/manufacturers.php?manufacturerid=196&tagid=0

Engineered Garments FWK (for women)

• Boutique U&I – http://boutiqueuandi.tumblr.com/post/420504159/f-w-k-engineered-garments-s-s-2010
• Jonathan+Olivia – http://jonathanandolivia.blogspot.com/2010/03/new-arrivals-at-jonathanolivia_3336.html
• Rosey Jekes is also carrying FWK.

There are a few that I’m missing, but I’ll update this post later.  Note that I regularly post new things as they show up online on my twitter account.

Available online in navy and tan suede.

The Colonial Collection: Perfect with pristine white, chambray, or pink shirting. The raw silk ties with their distinctive texture of natural slubs, the khaki backgrounds set off by striking lines of bleached colour, the soft tones Ties being cut by handof high summer.”

The new lightweight cashmere and linen scarves look perfect too.

Our groups of summer scarves in the finest of lightweight blends reflects the sun softened hues of the Indus Valley and the Punjab. The subtle motifs and the combination of bleached and muted shades with vibrant natural colours speak with a surprisingly modern voice in an ancient tongue. The chicest way to wear these scarves is wound twice around the neck and tied in front, to give the effect of the traditional hunting stock. Worn with or without solar topi.

See the rest of the items on odinnewyork.com.

See more looks from the ts(s) Spring/Summer 2010 collection here: Part 1, Part 2

Alden chukkas and bluchers on the Plaza last.

Conveniently, Blackbird has just posted some new black Alden boots on their site a few minutes ago, which are a better made version of the plain #306 stock model. It’s too bad they did not order any in my size. ;_;

Update: Two more styles are now available as well.

A Fair Isle crewneck sweater and another shawl collar cashmere cardigan in a brown color (I wish J.Crew would sell one in navy, so that I don’t have to buy that $1k cardigan from Drake’s).

Some of the new accessories and shoes. It seems only natural now for J.Crew to sell Bass Weejuns, and some styles from Quoddy might even be showing up soon. The WANT Les Essentiels bag is a surprise, as the bag and luggage line is a bit more trendy than J.Crew’s image; the black canvas and tan leather combination was a great choice though, and can easily be worked in with more classic styles.

Aigle boots, much better than the ubiquitous Hunter boots.

Utility shirts, including one in a herringbone patterned fabric.

And lastly, some of the new outerwear. I like everything about the cashmere peacoat except for the epaulet straps and the belted back, both unnecessary details.

From one of Barney’s holiday mailers.  I’ve checked them out in store and they’re all pretty nice, but they seemed 20-30% more expensive than what they should be priced at.

Update: All of the items are now available for purchase on Barneys.com.

Here are the wallets.

Pria scarves from Blackbird, and English made wool scarves from J.Crew. All are excellent values for under $75.

Update:  They’re now available to purchase online.

(the pair I picked up)

Address:
5465 Leary Avenue NW
Seattle, WA 98107

All RRL.

Some Pendleton goods, including made in USA Christmas stockings (I’m going back for some of those later).

Those candles on the table are from Cire Trudon, a French company that’s been around since 1643.

Alden’s.

Filson, Red Wings, and some vintage shirts.

What I picked up: a Stanley thermos, an Alden shoe horn, locally made soaps, and chocolates from England. (not pictured, Haribo gummies from the Blackbird candy shop)

Update: See more pictures on Blackbird’s blog and Wear What When.

I arrived at about 8:50, only to find that there was a huge line of about 100 people or so already (which then doubled by the time they opened 15 minutes later). The crowd had a pretty friendly atmosphere, even after Filson opened the doors.

Almost all of the bags that I saw were used and well loved. I can only hope that someday the bags I have will look just as great. They did have stacks of wheeled luggage which looked new as well, so if you happened to need one of those you were in luck.



There were tables and tables full of cheap but heavily used shoes and boots. The only new shoes that I saw were a pallet full of those upland loafers which nobody seemed to want, though I just noticed after going through my photos that it looks like there was a stack of new boots that I missed (ffffuuuu…!).



The main area had a great selection of Filson’s clothing and in all size ranges. Probably about 3/4 of it was unworn stuff, and the other 1/4 was customer returns. There were also several tables with clothing from their women’s line.

It seemed like mostly everyone was just there looking for a few things, including for Christmas gift shopping. Some even went just for socks, which they had tons of (Filson’s socks are pretty good). I only saw a couple of people who looked like they were grabbing as much stuff as they could to pick through later, no doubt to resell on ebay.

Here’s an older shooting jacket.

A fit prototype shirt jacket from 2006, according to some markings on it.


I don’t know the history on this jacket, but it was awesome. Its previous owner definitely wore the hell out it before it somehow found its way back to Filson.

A section for sweaters, mostly from past seasons I think.

I don’t remember this one though.

Scans from the handout they gave as you entered. The prices were pretty reasonable (and in some cases a steal).

I surprisingly had a fun time there and it was nice to see all of the used gear they had out for sale (in contrast to the pristine nature of their flagship store on the other side of the neighborhood). If you’re a Filson fan and happen to be in the area for next year’s sale, I would highly recommend visiting it even if you don’t want to buy anything.

I own both the leather tarras and explorer bags and have used them very heavily for the past two years. The leather and stitching has so far held up well, and I’ve had no problems with the fabric lining and metal hardware.

The thing that you don’t see well advertised with these (and all of Barbour’s bags) is that they’re made in China, much to the surprise of many people. I would not worry about the quality of these however, as they’re just as good as my other U.S. or European made bags. Oi Polloi carries both.

If you must have old world produced goods and do not mind paying up to twice as much, another British maker called Tusting still makes identical styled bags there in the UK.

The two above are my own from the FW2008 season and are my favorite versions so far, in that the throat latch is fixed in place and the left breast pocket includes convenient pen holders.  If appropriately layered, the corduroy on the right is suitable to wear throughout the winter here in Seattle, and the melton wool version on the left is reserved for just the coldest of days.  Included in the picture is a shawl collar sweatshirt and knit gloves from J.Crew, an Engineered Garments cotton scarf, and a wool cap from Christy’s of London.

If you were to have just one jacket from the Woolrich Woolen Mills collection, it should be the Maine guide jacket.

Available at Context, Farinelli’s, Legion, Tres Bien, The Bureau, and Coggles.

Address:
1117 1st Ave
Seattle, WA 98101

Website: http://www.jstraw.com/
Blog: http://jackstrawclothing.blogspot.com/

Their fall 2009 catalog features a number of great items, including cowichan knits, hunting jackets, crepe soled moccasin boots, and an awesome blue pullover anorak. They call it “an authentic collection that would have been favored by the world’s great explorers.”

You can request a copy on their website, or view it online.

More info:

We’d been musing about the shawl-collared cardigan ever since we saw William Claxton’s marvellous photo book of Steve McQueen. There’s a series of casual shots taken in Big Sur, with McQueen wearing a stylish navy version of this cardigan with jeans and suede chukka boots. Casual elegance takes on new meaning.

We decided to revive this classic sweater with all its panache of an unconstructed jacket, but with a tad more comfort and versatility. Modesty no virtue, we’ve actually improved on the McQueen version, or any other for that matter. We believe our cardigan to be the veritable cynosure of this iconic sweater: finest four-ply ribbed cashmere, five braided British tan leather buttons, two front pockets, classic raglan shoulders, and a knitted cashmere throat loop closure. The shawl collar, need we add, is a paragon of discriminating design.

Awesome.

She began a long conversation with Michael Harris, the owner, manager and entire staff of Paul’s Hat Works. Harris showed her his vast – and unsold – inventory of Panama hats, felt hats, top hats, antique hat boxes, and a backroom full of ancient machinery for blocking, steaming and molding hats. The place looked like a museum and smelled as musty as a tomb. The business was on its last legs; Harris was looking for a buyer.

Griffin, who radiates a combination of perkiness and steely resolution, immediately determined to buy the old place and turn it into a success. She enlisted three friends – Abbie Dwelle, 23, described as “a building and organizational visionary,” Wendy Hawkins, 25, co-owner of a food cooperative, and Kirsten Hove, 29, a hat designer.

The four spent months negotiating with Harris, weeks more learning some of the hat tricks of the trade, and by the end of summer closed the deal, cleaned up the shop a bit and had a grand reopening party this month.

I hope the new owners do well and I plan on stopping in next time I’m down in the area (I wonder if they would sell me an unblocked panama hat, if they have any).

Photo by Stephen Lam.

Also be sure to check out their blog, where they’ve documented the store’s transformation.  This vintage head measuring device is also noteworthy: http://hatworksbypaul.wordpress.com/2009/08/11/hats-for-big-and-or-tall-people/