Vintage polo style from between 1910-1930, long before Ralph Lauren came along.
Year: 2010 (page 18 of 46)
Up until 1930, fabric shrinking was a real problem for any clothing you bought. Then sanforization came along, which is a patented process for shrinking the fabric yarns back down to their original size after they’re woven. Developed by Sanford L. Cluett, it became one of the most important innovations in textile technology of the 20th century.
After its creation, the term “sanforized” was trademarked and heavily advertised for several decades – like most companies, they went through different phases of ads and during the 50’s they used comics.
For some light Sunday reading, publisher Toolemera Press has a nice selection of vintage tool catalogs going back to the 1800’s for free viewing on their website, along with some interesting photo galleries. Via Best Made Company.
A catalog from Mack & Co., circa 1909. Many tool illustrations.
A printing plate of an axe head from the Underhill Edge Tool Company, circa 1860.
First Luxe has a preview of John Lobb’s new Saint-Crépin model for later this year – a wholecut double monkstrap made on the 7000 last.
We’ll have to wait for them to release more pictures, but it looks like they added some sort of reverse stitch along the inside area where the strap is cut (not sure on the reason, maybe to add reinforcement?).
Related post: John Lobb’s Spiral Cut Shoes
Outside of the custom market and not counting seven folds, untipped ties are pretty uncommon to find and even Drake’s only sells a few in a raw silk variety. There is no real benefit – however, on some types of silk I’ve found that they have a habit of becoming easily bent or curled at the tip and it’s something that you’ll either think is charming or infuriating.
Untipped regimental ties sold under a Hartford name, which seems to be some obscure line from Europe. Made in Italy, they’re pretty decent and have a sturdy lining.
I intend on having some new ones made for me this next year, and will report back later.
Earlier this year, Christian over on Ivy Style showed previews of what to expect from Ralph Lauren and Brooks Brothers for this fall and I’ve had some of those tweed jackets on my mind ever since. The natural shoulders on a few of them is what appeals to me the most I think – never minding the technical merits of shoulder construction, jackets without heavy padding are more comfortable to me and only because they don’t feel like I’m actually wearing something formal that needs to be fussed over.
Ideally I think I only need two types for now: one in a grey herringbone tweed and another in navy (perhaps that J.Crew jacket being sold later this year will do alright). When I’m older, I can then look for something in brown and another in green. Seeing how long these sorts of jackets last, I could probably do pretty well with just a few.
On a side note, I do worry about how difficult it will be to purchase some of this. Often it seems the more interesting items like these never make it into the normal retail distribution chains, save for a few flagship stores (and hardly ever available online). Here’s to hoping that they don’t mess it up.
Jake Davis has a great preview of some the leather accented pieces in the Engineered Garments Spring/Summer 2011 collection, go check it out.
Golden Bear produces some questionable pieces, but I take it as a good sign that the EG guys were happy enough with the leather jackets made for them in the Fall/Winter 2010 collection that they would continue their relationship for another season. I’m hoping that the new explorer jacket (shown below on the left) will be stocked by at least one U.S. store.
Related post: Engineered Garments Fall/Winter 2010 Lookbook
J.Crew’s fall rollout has begun and they updated their website last night with new arrivals. Most of it is expected basics, but there are a few interesting gems: a denim western shirt, copies of Take Ivy, printed Hill-Side pocket squares, and socks from Saint James. The footwear lineup is also becoming more impressive, with new models from Alden and Russell Moccasins.
Except for the crepe soles, these remind me a bit of the roughout boots worn by some servicemen during WW2.
S2W8’s store blog has some pictures of a new pair of jeans from Engineered Garments’ smaller Progressive Clothing line. Made in NYC, various types of Cone Mills denim are arranged in a way to make them look like old school four panel “fun” shirts and pants. Even the selvage edges have different colored threads.
Last year, the only known pieces under the Progressive Clothing line were the suit jacket, pants, and shorts made by Southwick.
Related posts:
– Engineered Garments flannel fun shirt
– Engineered Garments Fall/Winter 2010 Lookbook
Scans from factory visits in Last (Volume 12) and Free & Easy (July 2010). The Free & Easy piece focused on the new postman inspired shoes, and for now in Japan will be exclusive to the Rugged Museum.
