Opening Ceremony has some new Yuketen boots available online. The ranger boots with the strap above the vamp remind me of older moc boots, particularly those made by Eastland before they closed down their U.S. manufacturing operations.
Pete Anderson just posted a great interview with Yuki Matsuda over on styleforum.net. Matsuda is the founder of Meg Company, whose products you might be familiar with under the names of Yuketen and Monitaly.
PWA: You mentioned that Yuketen’s style is mostly 50s/60s American-based. Is there a particular, specific setting in mind for Fall/Winter 2010?
Yuki Matsuda: Yuketen Hunt boots’ inspiration derives from the 1920-30s; Maine Guide Boots are better classified as 1940s-inspired; Ring Boots are from the 1960s, etc. So, each Yuketen style has its own historical reference and thematic era. Yuketen FW2010 is the most well-curated collection ever in our history. We’ve ramped up our small moccasin factory, investing in new patterns and hand tools so that we can confidently make the best quality boots and shoes in our 20-year history.
The arctic weather in Europe may be the simple answer, or perhaps it’s something deeper, but for some reason everybody at the Pitti Immagine Uomo trade fair in Florence, Italy, which closed today, was dressed like a mountaineer. On the runways and on the Renaissance streets, the default look comprised hiking boots, heavy felted, checked-wool puffed coats and scarves as wide as king-size bedspreads.
Fashion rarely follows function or logic, but the fallout from the crumbling financial markets may also be responsible for this back-to-nature escapism. The Japanese have been forecasting this nature-bound, anti-urban trend for a few seasons and avant-garde Tokyo brands and boutiques have gone crazy for original plaid, snow boots and hunting gear of every kind, in the process re-energizing staid American mountain classics like Timberland, Pendleton, Woolrich, Filson, L.L. Bean and Red Wing. Last season at Pitti, Undercover showed a mix of tech and country styles that may have influenced the general mood.
Corneliani’s show, in particular, seemed to be well received by buyers and press alike.
A forest of tall trees, each with a different texture to the bark, created a striking background for tactile menswear.
As the models, in thick woolens and body-conscious tailoring, walked through the “woods” — tree trunks that will be recycled into furniture — the Corneliani show expressed the spirit of modern men’s fashion.
Rather than cutting back on quality to keep prices at bay, many brands will hold on to loyal clients by amping up the craftsmanship and detail in their garments. It’s a surefooted measure meant to nstripes and plaids that match at the seams with more than two hours of handcater to those that understand that value doesn’t always carry the lowest price tag. Oxxford Clothes just introduced the new Highest Quality collection. With an opening price point of $4,000, the suit line boasts tailoring touches like cape lined jackets, pi workmanship just on the waist of the trousers.
And here is a set of pictures from Très Bien, who visited most of the designers I was interested in (Engineered Garments, Nigel Cabourn, Post Overalls, Yuketen, the usual). Read on to see more.
Bureau posted pictures this afternoon of some new Maine guide boots being made for them by Yuketen. Are these some of the new goodyear welted versions that were announced earlier this year?
While nice and no doubt comfortable, there is something crude about attaching a sole meant for a work boot onto a shoe meant for the great outdoors. I think a much better choice would have been to use something like Vibram’s stalker sole, which has both a good reliable tread and a low visible profile.
My ranger mocs from Yuketen have so far been treating me well after a couple months of wear, and they’re much more comfortable than the J.Crew desert boots that I rotate between.
They definitely know how to make a good crepe soled shoe. On mention of which, the little bird on twitter told me Oi Polloi will be putting up some of these boots for sale on their site on Friday. They’ll probably go quick…