And now Très Bien has begun to upload pictures of their trip to Pitti Uomo 80. Along with Bruce Pask’s reports, these are always a great way to get a peak at what’s next for upcoming seasons – my favorite so far is this (reversible?) camo sportcoat from Engineered Garments. Update: looks like some pictures have been removed.
The guys from FrenchTrotters recently published a great video of their trip to Pitti – it’s worth a watch if you’ve been following coverage and is probably the best piece of visual media I’ve seen from this season’s show.
Reports from Bruce Pask, in two parts:
Woolrich Woollen Mills, showing for the first time at Pitti in parent company WP Lavori in Corso’s brand new pavilion, featured shockingly vibrant African tribal printed camp shirts, scarves and neckties paired with khaki trousers and safari-style jackets. The designer Mark McNairy capped one look with an olive canvas and mesh bucket hat cleverly reminiscent of a Pith helmet, but was actually inspired by the signature headgear of J.J. from the TV series “Good Times.” The collection was absolutely “Dy-no-mite,” as J.J. would say.
At Pitti, Innovation and Inspiration
Engineered Garments, another show favorite, did an amazing group of polka-dotted clothing that played with size and scale. Cotton sport jackets, shirts, shorts, pants and ties — in differing sizes of dots, in bold navy and white or a more quiet, chic khaki and white — can be combined for bold, strong looks or worn separately as accent pieces. Make mine a combo, please.
Good reading from Bernhard Roetzel on the summer suit:
Many gentlemen will hesitate to don a linen suit unless they stay in Capri or Sorrento. It is rather a matter of colour than of material whether a linen suit will look out of place on the summerly streets of New York, London, Brussels oder Zurich. A blue linen suit would be suitable in all of these towns, just like a garment in darker colours like tan or tobacco. Only the white linen suit might look a bit out of place, especially for office wear. In New York one will find another classic summer suit that is almost invisible elsewhere. The American answer to the Italian linen suit is the the single-breasted seersucker suit. It is named after the cloth that it is made of. To create the typical wrinkled effect the base threads are stretched while the weft threads are looser.
There is a lack of selection in lighter summer fabrics for American RTW suits, and I wish we had something else besides seersucker. Luckily, European companies are much more adventurous – some selections from Kiton:
wool/linen/silk
linen/cashmere/silk
wool/linen
linen/cashmere/silk
Wearing some old and classic sportswear – tennis sweaters, sneakers, gurkha shorts, and even a Fred Perry polo. Background reading:
A 1999 Sports Illustrated article about the magazine’s 20 “favorite athletes” of the 20th century said about Gonzales (their number 15 pick): “If earth was on the line in a tennis match, the man you want serving to save humankind would be Ricardo Alonso Gonzalez.”
Summer sales bring summer socks.
I usually stick to muted colors, but I thought I’d give these a try this season (they can’t be any more jarring than the argyles I wear). Interestingly, the bright blue pairs are a 70/30 cotton/nylon mix and I wonder if they’ll end up lasting longer than Corgi’s 100% cotton versions.
Curiosity led me to pick up a new shaving brush from Blackbird a few weeks ago and I’ve been using it daily since. Previously I had been using an old basic Art of Shaving brush which got the job done, but I wondered if those fancier brushes did anything better.
In my case, my new super badger brush did not help give a better lather than my old brush (I use plain soap for shaving, so perhaps it might be more useful with a traditional creme) but it certainly is much softer against my skin and put a feeling of luxury back into my morning routine. Aside from that, the only other discernible difference between the two is that the Edwin Jagger brush has not yet lost any hairs unlike my Art of Shaving brush, which seemed to always shed a few on a regular basis.
Regarding brush manufacturing, Edwin Jagger put together a short video showing the steps of how they’re made and it’s worth a watch:
A new exhibit featuring the work of the late Tommy Nutter is now open in the Fashion and Textile Museum in London – from a Guardian article:
Mick and Bianca chose to wear his designs on their wedding day; he was on Elton John’s speed-dial, and was the go-to man for women who wanted to wear men’s tailoring.
Now the work of Tommy Nutter, the first tailor to successfully combine Savile Row traditions with the cutting edge fashion of Swinging London, is being celebrated with a display at the Fashion and Textile Museum.
“His approach to tailoring was subversive,” said Timothy Everest, the renowned tailor who trained under Nutter in the late 80s and is joint curator for the show in Bermondsey Street, south-east London. “He was articulating bespoke tailoring to a new, younger, audience.”
His work was groundbreaking at the time and influenced the flamboyant rock and roll style that we associate with the 60’s and 70’s. Londonist has some great pictures of the exhibit as well.
Tommy Nutter, from the giant Bespoke book.
© 2024 Mister Crew. All rights reserved.
Theme by Anders Norén.
