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The Ivy Look

ivy_look
A copy of The Ivy Look finally arrived last week and I’ve been studying it continually since. The authors describe it best from the forward:

Think of this book as Ivy League: The Director’s Cut. An entirely personal edit of what we consider to be the very best bits – the main styles, the sharp dressers and the major retailers.

The surprisingly small book is full of great illustrations, ads, and pictures exploring different parts of the Ivy look and the icons that popularized them. Definitely pick it up if you find these things interesting.

Some favorite quotes I found:

Brooks Brothers was something else; in the heart of New York, it was a vast, oak paneled emporium full to bursting point with the finest Ivy clothing, pared down and laid out on tables to be viewed as though works of art. To me there were just that, each label sewn in in every garments that Brooks Brothers sold carried the words ‘Made in USA’, as reassuring to seekers of the Ivy look as an authenticated painting signed by Picasso.
– Graham Marsh

It is a wardrobe that bestows tradition and elegance upon those who were not born into backgrounds of tradition and elegance. It’s a quiet, decidedly un-flashly way communicating an appreciation for clothes with a connection to the great moments of twentieth century culture. It still means a lot to me that Miles Davis wore Bass Weejuns. I feel like I am part of that tradition. I am following in his footsteps.
– JP Gaul

Previous post: Reviews for The Ivy Look

Split-Toe Shoes

The split-toe shoes – a great alternative to plain toe bluchers or wingtips and also good shoes to pair with a fall wardrobe. Brooks Brothers currently has some marked down under their Peal & Co line.

Brooks Brothers Peal and Co Split Toe Shoes
A scan from Last, volume 13. The Edward Green Dover model is perfection.

Last Split Toe Shoes - Edward Green Dover

A Corduroy Combo

Here’s an unusual but interesting combination of a sportcoat and trousers in different colored corduroy. This is the first of a series from Fantastic Man, which will be about how to wear clothing in “particular” ways.

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Logging Locomotives

One of the frequent subjects photographed by Darius Kinsey during his trips out to the early logging camps of the Pacific Northwest were the powerful locomotives used to haul the massive fallen trees back out of the forests. Unlike the locomotives used to pull freight and passengers, the specially designed logging locomotives had to deal with steep inclines, tight turns, and unstable tracks.

Related post: The Photography of Darius Kinsey

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Knit Gloves from Barbour

If you’re looking to pick up a pair of sturdy and basic knit gloves this winter, check out the ones from Barbour. While not soft, the wool that Barbour uses is heavy and thick, and they’re something that you’d expect to find issued to the military. Being 100% wool, they’re also ideal for outdoor activities like fishing (wool will still help you keep warm when wet).

Orvis has both versions available for under $20 each: the regular type (also on sale), and the fingerless.

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Chamois Cloth Shirts

The chamois cloth shirt has been a longtime favorite among outdoorsmen – made from soft sueded cotton (think flannel), they are ideal for layering in cold weather and are about as warm as wool. Just don’t get them wet. Some newer ones for consideration this season:

An LL Bean chamois cloth shirt in the Signature line catalog. Their copy says that it was first introduced in 1933, but I’ve seen references that state that LL Bean first introduced chamois cloth shirts around 1927-28 – perhaps they’re referring to a particular version of the shirt? The design has supposedly not changed much over the years.

Update: Here’s an explanation on the difference in years (click on the chamois cloth shirt image).

Made of thick brushed cotton to mimic the supple feel of chamois leather, ”Bean’s Leatherette Shirt” first appeared in a Fall 1927 catalog. Five years later it returned as the Chamois Cloth Shirt, and as Leon Leonwood told his customers, ”This is the shirt I personally use on all my hunting and fishing trips.”

In the coming decades L.L.Bean would introduce dozens of chamois shirts, varying the styling and colors slightly to keep up with changing times. This model harks back to the original.

So, same shirt, but with a different name.

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J.Crew’s new version in their utility shirt cut, it’s much better fitting if you’re not looking for an overshirt.

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Old magazine ads for chamois cloth shirts – just about all outdoor clothing companies made them.

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Garment Reproduction of Workers

Still under the radar, Garment Reproduction of Workers is a small line based out of Japan. Much of the clothing is workwear inspired, particularly with influences from early 20th century Europe. Pieces are made in either France or Japan, and utilize vintage deadstock fabrics, buttons, and clasps.

Some online stores which carry it (proxy still needed): Starling, Arch, Cotyle

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Upcoming Viberg Boots

Barley Harvest Season scored a preview of their selection of Viberg boots coming in for 2011 in the Free & Easy October issue (with Steve McQueen on the cover). The ‘exhibition‘ was hosted in a fairly cool looking furniture and design store.

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Tricker’s Motorcycle Boots

Clunky wingtip boots are probably the first thing to come to mind when thinking of Tricker’s, but like the other Northampton firms, they have a very wide catalog of shoes available. Motorcycle boots are among them.

It is a hard to find design and they’re reminiscent to the older equestrian boots and puttees (leg coverings) that were popular with motorcycle riders up until the 1940’s. I passed up on a pair in my size years ago and I’ve regretted it ever since, but I wonder if a custom order might be an option I should ask about.

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Another source, also available in brown.

puttees
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Puttees, as shown in Rin Tanaka’s Harley Davidson Book of Fashions.



More boots and puttees worn in a group photo in front of a Harley-Davidson dealer in 1925.

Distinctive Automobile Garments & Requisites

Here’s another fascinating gem found on Google Books: a 1905 catalog for clothing to be worn when riding on the new mechanical wonder known as the automobile. This period was probably a rough transition in menswear – the stylish clothing that men preferred previously were now impractical for the faster open carriage cars and there was probably quite a bit of trial and error involved in finding what worked and what didn’t.

Inside the catalog: lots of goggles, many leather jackets (including some short cropped models that I wonder might have led to the evolution of the current motorcycle jackets of today), long fur coats, and bizarre racing suits. [Google Books]

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