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Denim in Today’s News

The WSJ is reporting on a postive turn around in the financials at Levi Strauss & Co:

The 157-year-old company is trying to reinvent itself as not just a purveyor of basics but as an edgier brand suitable for the fashion cognoscenti. By opening lavish boutiques, like one in London, renaming its high-end labels, and hiring executives from competing designer brands like Ralph Lauren and 7 for All Mankind, the company is seeking to improve its fashion street cred, a move that it hopes will reignite sales, which have stabilized at around $4 billion annually after peaking at $7.1 billion 1996.

The company doesn’t disclose dollar sales of its expensive jeans, which are a small part of its business. They are important, however, because they cast a halo over the brand name.

The latest results look positive: On Tuesday, Levi’s reported that it earned $56 million in its first fiscal quarter ended Feb. 28, up 17% from a year earlier. Revenue rose 9% to $1.04 billion, on growth of the brand’s world-wide footprint and favorable exchange rates. On a constant-currency basis, the company said net revenue rose 4% in the quarter. Levi’s is closely held but it reports results because of its publicly traded debt.

I’m still wary of their high-end premium items, but it’s good to see the company doing well again. Continue reading more.

And Self Edge was profiled in the NYTimes:

Next, the hem, an obstacle in itself. Local tailors looked at me as if I had requested a Pétrus Slurpee at a 7-Eleven: chain-stitching requires a special machine. So again to the Internet, which led me to Self Edge on Orchard Street, where in the basement, a refurbished Union Special with specially fabricated parts gnaws its way through 100 pairs of jeans a week.

Upstairs, Self Edge has one of the best, and most imposing, selections of denim in the city. Just inside the store, to the left of the front door, is the thickly packed rack of jeans, dangling side by side as if on meat hooks in a freezer. Almost uniformly, they’re broodingly dark and ramrod stiff, the selection emphasizing Japanese brands that fetishistically recreate rugged American denim products of decades long gone.

Continue reading more.

A Motorcycle Dealer on H Street

I haven’t been able to stop studying this old photo on shorpy that Pete linked to this morning on twitter. If you were to summarize Rin Tanaka’s Harley Davidson Book of Fashions into one picture, this might do a pretty good job.

Washington, D.C., circa 1925. “H. Addison Bowie.” A motorcycle dealer on H Street. With “Harley-Davidson” in the big window under “Distributors,” and a smaller sign upstairs. National Photo Company glass negative.

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Make sure you view the large hi-res version. Some highlights:

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harley_davidson_1925_03 Read more

Review: J.Crew’s Rustic Shawl Collar Cardigan

After hunting around for one in a few different stores with no luck, I ended up ordering J.Crew’s new shawl collar cardigan which they described as being made from “rugged cotton” with a “chunky” knit (sounds like something from Free & Easy right?). The cardigan I received did not really live up to its copy though – it’s actually very lightweight and the knitting is not that chunky. The only thing they did right on it were the nice Corozo nut buttons.

I can think of a couple good scenarios that it would be nice to have a light cardigan like this, but I don’t really live any of those out (so back to the store it goes). Recommendation: Don’t buy.

I should have really just ponied up for Albam’s version when they were still in stock.

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Day Off Style

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Engineered Garments Kendall jacket (looks like a Baracuta G4), J.Crew cashmere crewneck and button down shirt.

Spotting the Enemy with Ray-Bans

“All Ray-Ban Sun Glass production is allocated to military use” – from an ad in 1945.

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Sunglasses as Modern Art

A vintage Persol ad from 1987.

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Make Your Own Moccasins

From Popular Science, August 1937.

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Citynoise.org – Old and New Urban Photography

I was just shown this interesting photography site where users upload pictures of their city environments. Major spots are covered, like Seattle and Chicago, and there are some great sets showing older photos from decades ago (like these for NYC in 1942, part 1 and part 3). Good stuff.

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Ralph Lauren Shoe Sale

About 2-3 times a year, online discount shoe retailer Grapevinehill will get in shipments of Ralph Lauren branded shoes where you can sometimes find great deals (50% off retail, and better). Skip the made in Italy ones, and go straight for the pairs made in the USA and England. Use the code BIGRL for 15% off until April 13th.

Ralph Lauren Peering Oxfords – made by Edward Green

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Ralph Lauren Garran Monkstrap Boots

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Ralph Lauren Gifford Ankle Boots – made from shell cordovan

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And some made in USA loafers. I’ve got a couple pairs of these and they’re a great value.

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Margaret Howell/MHL SS10 in at South Willard

South Willard just put up their Spring/Summer 2010 shipments for Margaret Howell and MHL. My favorite pieces are the light blue chambray shirt and tan leather belt.

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