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Year: 2010 (page 20 of 46)

The Handmade Myth

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LVMH recently got into a bit of trouble in Europe for advertising their products as being handmade by small workshop artisans when in truth, a majority of their products are made on assembly lines:

There’s just one tiny detail missing. Hardly any Vuitton bags or wallets are handmade. While reporting an article on Vuitton in 2004, I visited one of its factories in the village of Ducey near Mont St. Michel. There I saw rows of workers seated at sewing machines, stitching together machine-cut pieces of canvas and leather. The partially finished bags were rolled from one workstation to the next on metal carts.

Britain’s Advertising Standards Authority then ordered them to stop not long after the ad campaign started:

The bureaucrats paid to protect the public from flimflammery declared this to be a fraud. “[C]onsumers would interpret the image of a woman using a needle and thread to stitch the handle of a bag,” the agency ruled, “to mean that Louis Vuitton bags were hand stitched.”

Fair enough, but one can’t help but think that the Standards Authority was just attempting to protect Savile Row and Northhampton craftsman, many of whom use machines for their own “handmade” work. The word is very ambiguous in marketing these days and it’s probably too late to protect it now.

What even counts as being handmade? Despite what notions we like to think of, most goods sold today were probably touched by a machine at some point – shoes need to be welted, jeans need to be sewn, and buttons need to be punched. These sorts of things should be encouraged though, as it helps efficiency (and in theory, better prices for consumers). A little leeway should be alright; after all, handwork is still involved somewhere along the way and a machine can still not beat the experience of a seamstress who has the finesse to finish those delicate details or the tailor who knows how to cut the fabric just right.

Roman Holiday

The 1953 black and white film introduced Audrey Hepburn to the the world and also won her the Academy Award for Best Actress. Co-star Gregory Peck plays a regular joe newspaper man.

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Engineered Garments Fall/Winter 2010 Lookbook

The Engineered Garments lookbook for FW10 is now available online, along with the images for the FWK collection. The bike messenger inspired pieces are very surprising and would be perfect for a tweed run.

The more newer interesting stuff:
– Hartford 3/4 pants, bike knicker shorts, utility pants
– Explorer jacket, Ashfield jacket, fireman shirt jacket, bike jacket, storm parka
– Fedora with ear flaps

The belts with the sterling silver buckles are back as well.

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Woolrich Woolen Mills FW10 is Shipping

Stores in Europe are starting to receive the first of their shipments for WWM FW10. It will probably take a few more weeks before it starts to show up in the U.S.

From End Clothing:

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From Frans Boone:

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Update: Oi Polloi now has in a few shirts and pairs of the ranger pants.

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Unstructured Jackets for Summer

The unstructured jacket is a perfect solution to summer time heat when a formal appearance is still needed. What to look for: unlined, or partial lining; no padding; fabric should be cottons, linens, or tropical wool. Tailoring is particularly important to get the look just right, as the jacket will drape from the shoulders. The inevitable wrinkles can be easily steamed out at the end of the day.

A Brunello Cucinelli jacket featured in a recent T Magazine piece.

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Examples from Men’s Ex.

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Silver Slide Buckles

It needs a good polishing, but I finally got around to getting a new belt for this sterling silver slide buckle that I’ve had lying around unused for the past few years. Made in England like the best of them, it was purchased from J.Crew of all places back when they attempted to sell a small selection of high end goods under their own name. An engraving will come next.

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Below, an example of one being worn from Ralph Lauren. These types of buckles are usually very small (about an 1″ or so in height), but they provide a nice visual break for your clothing when worn. The other benefit to these is that the leather straps can be easily switched out with other colors/materials.

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A few buckle options available to purchase online:
Sid Mashburn, $175. Also available in a lesser expensive brass.
Brooks Brothers, $228.
Tiffany & Co, $215.
Ralph Lauren, $150.

Both Brooks Brothers and Sid Mashburn sell the needed 1″ leather belt straps.

Hats Off to Ecuador

A short piece on panama hats from an issue of The Rotarian in 1956:

The next time you put on that crisp, cool “Panama” hat, remember to thank the Ecuadorians – they made it! This year their South American country will produce 4 million hats, 90 percent of which will be exported to the United States. And, as it has every year, Panama will get the credit. One story has it that Ferdinand de Lesseps, builder of the Panama Canal, bought Ecuadorian straws in Panama marketplaces; others engaged on that project followed suit – and the vogue was born. The toquilla straw of Ecuador became known as the “Panama” – and the name has stuck.

Click on the image to view the full version.
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The Business of Selling Luxury Online

There was an article in yesterday’s NYTimes on how some luxury companies are rethinking their plans for online retailing:

In the genteel world of luxury, companies long felt that the Web was no place for merchandising exclusive products. And there was a gentlemen’s agreement with department stores not to siphon sales by reaching out directly to wealthy customers.

Then, in came the recession, and out went the niceties. Department stores slashed prices on $1,200 handbags, while luxury lines fretted about losing their exclusivity. Now, come September, marcjacobs.com is going retail, 10 years after most brands opened Web showrooms.

Selling high end goods online no longer carries the same negative connotation it was once had and companies can be successful if they’re smart about it. Third party companies such as Gilt and Yoox will also become much larger players in this area, and I would expect that we’ll soon see more designers working directly with them to use their existing platforms instead of rolling out their own.

Continue reading more.

Aubercy’s Button Boots

New in at Leffot, button boots from Aubercy. They’re about as unique as they are arcane, and these types of boots are nowadays only produced by small manufacturers due to their niche demand. If you’d like to see a visual guide of how to use a button hook, Japanese store Otsuka has a pictorial.

Here’s another modern pair from J.M. Weston, once featured in the now defunct Last magazine:
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They were much more common during the 19th century, but slowly fell out of favor as laced boots and oxfords became more accepted in fashion circles. Even then shoemakers were always trying to come up with different methods to make them easier to put on.

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Below, an illustration of a shoe laster working on a pair of button boots. From Harper’s Magazine, 1885.

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On the left, Ernest Shackleton wearing button boots with formal wear.

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Twain Says What He Meant

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The NYTimes has an article on the upcoming first volume of the autobiography of Mark Twain. The papers have been locked away for the past 100 years (previously only being available to researchers) and were recorded in the last four years before his death in 1910 – instead of writing it himself, he paid someone to copy down his thoughts on a wide array of subjects thinking it would be more entertaining for readers.

Wry and cranky, droll and cantankerous — that’s the Mark Twain we think we know, thanks to reading “Huck Finn” and “Tom Sawyer” in high school. But in his unexpurgated autobiography, whose first volume is about to be published a century after his death, a very different Twain emerges, more pointedly political and willing to play the role of the angry prophet…

…About literary figures of his time, however, Twain has relatively little to say. He dislikes Bret Harte, whom he dismisses as “always bright but never brilliant”; offers a sad portrait of an aged and infirm Harriet Beecher Stowe; and lavishly praises his friend William Dean Howells. He reserved criticism of novelists whose work he disliked (Henry James, George Eliot) for his letters.

Critics, though, are another story. “I believe that the trade of critic, in literature, music, and the drama, is the most degraded of all trades, and that it has no real value,” Twain writes. “However, let it go,” he adds. “It is the will of God that we must have critics, and missionaries, and Congressmen, and humorists, and we must bear the burden.

Continue reading more. The first volume is available for preorder on Amazon for just under $20.

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