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Year: 2010 (page 21 of 46)

The Playboy Club

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A fun history read on the first Playboy Club in Chicago:

February 29, 1960 was a historic day for Chicago and the world. Playboy magazine owner Hugh Hefner decided that Leap Year would be an appropriate time for him to open up the world’s first Playboy Club on Walton Street in the Gold Coast. The club, having hired from the local talent pool, provided the first appearance of the Playboy Bunnies. These Bunnies, with their satin corsets, bunny ears and fluffy white tails served those fortunate enough to be “Keyholders” in the style of the old gaslight clubs. As VIPs of the club, Keyholders could enter the club at anytime and indulge in an atmosphere filled with music, alcohol and nubile women. The flagship Chicago location was so successful in its inaugural year that, it not only become the busiest club in the world, but it was also the first of 40 locations – each being referred to by Newsweek as a “Disneyland for adults.”

Back in the 50’s and 60’s, Playboy wasn’t just porn – it was a lifestyle brand for the mid-century American man.

Further reading on The Selvedge Yard: Iconic Branding of a Bunny Kind

Heffner was gifted with an ironic stroke of fate when the original “Stag Club” name that was going to grace his new men’s magazine was legally blocked by Stag magazine. He needed a new handle, and the stag was soon converted to the now iconic bunny, in a historic and innuendo-laden rename. Playboy later ran a pictorial article on Chicago’s Gaslight Club, and was overwhelmed by thousands of readers requesting to join this exclusive key members club. Playboy execs smelled a golden opportunity, and soon plans were laid to open their own private key holder’s club. All that was needed now was the vision.

Engineered Garments Fall/Winter 2010 Preview

Houyhnhnm has a preview of some of the new Bedford jackets in the Engineered Garments Fall/Winter collection, one in a variated knit pattern and the other in a windowpane fabric.

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Also – I missed this from earlier this year, but the Non-No guys seem to have gotten a shot of the new leather jackets (below on the right). On the left is a blanket lined parka and a blue quilted vest.

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Hopefully the lookbook for the full collection will be released publicly soon, and we can probably expect that they’ll start shipping things within the next month or two.

Update: Nepenthes has updated their site with a new journal for this week showing a few more items including a nice plaid workshirt (the pattern is much more wearable than the bright ones from last year) and a new corduroy Irving vest.

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Update 2: The Fall/Winter 2010 lookbook is now out.

Tony Wilding

Anthony ‘Tony’ Frederick Wilding (October 31, 1883 in Christchurch, New Zealand – May 9, 1915 near Neuve-Chapelle, Pas-de-Calais, France) was a champion tennis player and a soldier killed in action during World War I. He was the co-World No. 1 in 1911 and 1912 and the World No. 1 player in 1913. Pete Sampras was the first person to break his record across multiple Wimbledon wins in doubles, singles and mixed doubles.

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He was a keen motorcycle (with sidecar) rider with many long trips in Europe, New Zealand and America. In 1908 he won a gold medal in a reliability trial from Land’s End to John o’ Groats. Several ‘mighty rides’ (Myers) in Europe in 1910 included London to Lake Geneva and back, some 3000 miles (4800 km), including 350 miles (560 km) from Evian to Paris in one day.

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Sources: Wikipedia, anthonywilding.com

Free & Easy’s Jacket Run

Taking inspiration from the latest tweed runs, Free & Easy came up with a “Jacket Run” version for summer in their July issue where they focus on using lighter fabrics. Lots of great classic bikes and accessories are included.

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jacket_run_02 Read more

Bermuda Shorts

Reading a recent post on shorts over on HTJ, I was reminded of the similar photos from LIFE. The pictures only tell half of the story though, so I went digging for the actual issue that reported on the trend.

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Thirsty cluster of patrons in P.J. Clarke’s saloon on Manhattan’s Third Avenue often includes male shorts-wearers. Custom began among young men who wore shorts for Sunday afternoon lounging at home, kept them on as they wandered out to neighborhood bars.

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Correct outfits require long wool socks, here include cotton shorts($10) worn with a madras jacket ($32, both Brooks Brothers), worsted shorts ($17) and Argylls ($13, both Fenn-Feinstein).

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Continue reading more.

Colorful Inspirations

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Linen Caps

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Victim Fall/Winter 2010

Victim has begun to update its website with items from their fall/winter 2010 collection. Highlights are the worker jackets, the club collar workshirts, and aviator pants. More pieces will show up over the next couple of months to round out the selection.
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Frank Muytjens in Menswear Magazine

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The newly resurrected Menswear magazine has an interview with Frank Muytjens. Here are some excerpts, questions by Jean E. Palmieri:

How do you come up with novelty, given the inherent limits of men’s wear?
Men’s wear is almost like a framework. All the shapes are there and you can tweak them, but you have to keep it understandable. You want a guy to recognize it. There are only so elements you can play with. That’s a challenge, but it’s also what I find interesting.

Which artists inspire you?
Many. [Constantin] Brancusi, Fairfield Porter – he’s a great American painter. The Belgian architect Vincent Van Duysen – I love his clean lines. The photography of Irving Penn… I also look at nature. I love the California coast – Big Sur, Muir Woods. I’ve always been a bit of an outdoorsy guy, and that translates well [in my designs]. Nothing is too precious or too elegant – there should always be a tougher, masculine edge to it.

Who are your style icons?
They’re all dead, but I love Montgomery Clift and how he dressed, Jacques Cousteau’s striped Ts, The Clash, and Brancusi – he had great style. With people like this, it seemed more genuine, less thought out. There were no hair and makeup people. It’s hard to see personal style anymore.

What’s up next?
For fall, we have Crescent Down Works and Russell Moccasins. [Russell’s] factory is about as big as this room, and their process has been in place for such a long time now. It makes me appreciate the craftmanship even more because you know what’s behind it.

On a side note, the first issue of Menswear is pretty decent and has some interesting profiles on several different designers and companies along with current industry trends – pick it up at your local Barnes & Noble. I know I’ve spent six dollars on worse things.

Related post: Frank Muytjens in Free & Easy

The American Look, 1958

An old video on midcentury design in America – many icons from Eames, Saarinen, and Mies van der Rohe have cameos (among others). Via BoingBoing.


Part 2, Part 3

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