Mister Crew

A collection of things on men's clothing and culture

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Year: 2010 (page 7 of 46)

Chamois Cloth Shirts

The chamois cloth shirt has been a longtime favorite among outdoorsmen – made from soft sueded cotton (think flannel), they are ideal for layering in cold weather and are about as warm as wool. Just don’t get them wet. Some newer ones for consideration this season:

An LL Bean chamois cloth shirt in the Signature line catalog. Their copy says that it was first introduced in 1933, but I’ve seen references that state that LL Bean first introduced chamois cloth shirts around 1927-28 – perhaps they’re referring to a particular version of the shirt? The design has supposedly not changed much over the years.

Update: Here’s an explanation on the difference in years (click on the chamois cloth shirt image).

Made of thick brushed cotton to mimic the supple feel of chamois leather, ”Bean’s Leatherette Shirt” first appeared in a Fall 1927 catalog. Five years later it returned as the Chamois Cloth Shirt, and as Leon Leonwood told his customers, ”This is the shirt I personally use on all my hunting and fishing trips.”

In the coming decades L.L.Bean would introduce dozens of chamois shirts, varying the styling and colors slightly to keep up with changing times. This model harks back to the original.

So, same shirt, but with a different name.

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J.Crew’s new version in their utility shirt cut, it’s much better fitting if you’re not looking for an overshirt.

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Old magazine ads for chamois cloth shirts – just about all outdoor clothing companies made them.

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Garment Reproduction of Workers

Still under the radar, Garment Reproduction of Workers is a small line based out of Japan. Much of the clothing is workwear inspired, particularly with influences from early 20th century Europe. Pieces are made in either France or Japan, and utilize vintage deadstock fabrics, buttons, and clasps.

Some online stores which carry it (proxy still needed): Starling, Arch, Cotyle

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Upcoming Viberg Boots

Barley Harvest Season scored a preview of their selection of Viberg boots coming in for 2011 in the Free & Easy October issue (with Steve McQueen on the cover). The ‘exhibition‘ was hosted in a fairly cool looking furniture and design store.

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Tricker’s Motorcycle Boots

Clunky wingtip boots are probably the first thing to come to mind when thinking of Tricker’s, but like the other Northampton firms, they have a very wide catalog of shoes available. Motorcycle boots are among them.

It is a hard to find design and they’re reminiscent to the older equestrian boots and puttees (leg coverings) that were popular with motorcycle riders up until the 1940’s. I passed up on a pair in my size years ago and I’ve regretted it ever since, but I wonder if a custom order might be an option I should ask about.

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Another source, also available in brown.

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Puttees, as shown in Rin Tanaka’s Harley Davidson Book of Fashions.



More boots and puttees worn in a group photo in front of a Harley-Davidson dealer in 1925.

Distinctive Automobile Garments & Requisites

Here’s another fascinating gem found on Google Books: a 1905 catalog for clothing to be worn when riding on the new mechanical wonder known as the automobile. This period was probably a rough transition in menswear – the stylish clothing that men preferred previously were now impractical for the faster open carriage cars and there was probably quite a bit of trial and error involved in finding what worked and what didn’t.

Inside the catalog: lots of goggles, many leather jackets (including some short cropped models that I wonder might have led to the evolution of the current motorcycle jackets of today), long fur coats, and bizarre racing suits. [Google Books]

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Pumpkin Beers

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Feeling adventurous, I picked up a few seasonal beers that I usually avoid – pumpkin beers were new to me, so I had no idea on what to expect. The samples: Southern Tier Pumpking, the Elysian Night Owl and The Great Pumpkin, and the Dogfish Head Punkin Ale.

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Football Illustrations from Yale, 1878

College football illustrations by Frederic Remington, circa 1878. For a brief time, he was an art student at Yale and also played on the school’s team, which became the subject of many of his early drawings. From wikipedia:

Remington attended the art school at Yale University, the only male in the freshman year. However, he found that football and boxing were more interesting than the formal art training, particularly drawing from casts and still life objects. He preferred action drawing and his first published illustration was a cartoon of a “bandaged football player” for the student newspaper Yale Courant. Though he was not a star player, his participation on the strong Yale football team was a great source of pride for Remington and his family.

He left school the following year to take care of his father who had tuberculosis.

Related post: Cowboys and Vaqueros

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J.Crew’s New Arrivals for October

J.Crew added a few new interesting things to their site last night: a Crescent Down Works jacket, made in the US New Balance 1400 sneakers, and scarves from Drake’s (hopefully they will carry their ties at some point?).

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I don’t know what they were thinking with these $350 patchwork chinos of theirs though. They don’t even look good.

Fall/Winter Wools

Kiton has a great selection of fabrics up on their site as part of their made-to-measure program for Fall/Winter (the blue herringbone is probably my favorite of the bunch). They just recently acquired a mill from Carlo Barbera as well.

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The Wool Challis Tie

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The wool challis tie is perfect for this time of the year and pairs well with tweed and corduroy jackets for when you want to add a different texture. The fabric is made with a sturdy but soft simple weave and is a good alternative to the more expensive cashmere tie. Classic options can be found at the bastions: Ralph Lauren, O’Connell’s, Paul Stuart, J.Press, and Cable Car Clothiers. The grey challis tie above is one of mine from Franco Bassi, an Italian maker.

A Ralph Lauren Polo ad featuring a challis tie in dark green.

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