“Tome” and “encyclopedic” are great words to describe this book, get it if you can.
Category: Men’s Clothing (page 11 of 74)
Drake’s is now offering a selection of shantung ties for 2011 in regimental patterns. The silk used is very slubby and pairs best with casual jackets (a linen patchpocket sportcoat for example) – just be warned that the width on these are on the narrow side at 7cm. The other SS11 highlights are the new lightweight scarves and pocketsquares.
Rin Tanaka’s Inspiration Volume 2 event for vintage enthusiasts is wrapping up today and some great pictures are already showing up on the web, many with familiar faces:
* NYC Paris London HK Tokyo LA
* Junctioned
* In Pursuit of The Rush
* BEAMS style photo stream
Image from Modernica’s blog.
In the current February issue of Free & Easy, the editors examined the various impacts of Ivy/college style on the Japanese markets from over the years and included a section on “Heavy Duty Ivy”, an import from campuses during the 70’s (which was also well documented by the magazine Men’s Club).
This was not the Take Ivy sort of style with tweed jackets, navy blazers, ties, and loafers – this was all about parkas, down vests, rugged sweaters, and Bean boots. You never see it directly referred to, but it certainly has had a large influence on many Japanese designers who routinely integrate these elements into their collections.
Just in case you haven’t already seen it, Pete Anderson was recently able to meet up with Larry McKaughan of Heller’s Cafe during Capsule to discuss his work with Warehouse and the vintage industry. It’s a great read for those who have an interest in this area:
Even among all the Capsule booths that looked like they were designed with antiques in mind, only Larry McKaughan’s exhibit had the real thing–rare and unique vintage clothing. And although the shredded duck work pants, hickory-striped trousers, and jerseys that looked like they came off James Naismith’s back all had price tags on them, they weren’t really what McKaughan was selling. He was there with the folks from Warehouse promoting Heller’s Cafe for Warehouse, a small line of detailed, reproduction-type clothing that takes its cues from McKaughan’s extensive holdings in top-of-the-line used American clothing. The line features workwear and sportswear classics like chore jackets, sweatshirts (look for the double front pockets rather than a kangaroo pocket, and chambray and denim pieces.
McKaughan is not a “designer” and wouldn’t call himself such–through his business, Heller’s Cafe in Seattle, he’s been dealing vintage since the mid-1980s and has been a big player on the American and Japanese market. Rin Tinaka even wrote a book with him: The King of Vintage (that would be Larry). He’s well-known for a discerning eye and a collection without limits. If you’re interested in buying, you’ll have to have some connections–Heller’s Cafe only shows privately. But the new clothes Warehouse is making are slightly adjusted interpretations of some of Larry’s favorite items, so you have a chance to wear his picks after all.
Continue reading more.
After finally trying and passing on the unlined Leydon last chukkas from Alden, I decided to give the new chukkas sold by J.Crew a shot. These will be ideal for casual attire, and are intended to replace the J.Crew desert boots that I just recently threw away (to their credit, the MacAlister boots had no quality issues even after lots of wear, they were just flat out uncomfortable).
The leather is not actually suede in the traditional shoe sense, but is instead the special reverse chamois that has been showing up lately on several different Alden makeups for stores. It has a very matted and oily texture, and is very easy to care for.
New for Spring/Summer 11, the Engineered Garments explorer jacket is back for a second season in a lightweight but durable poplin (long time fans might remember the same fabric being used for jackets in the Spring/Summer 08 collection). The fit is similar to last season’s, and I’m already looking forward to the warmer weather that it will be ideal for.
Rainy day shots in Seattle:
More pictures available on Silver & Gold, Doo-Bop, Context, and the Nepenthes NYC blog.
Set in 1926, The Sand Pebbles is full of many different types of U.S. Navy uniforms from the time. One of my favorite details is shown when Steve McQueen’s character rolls up the sleeves of a shirt to show the liberty cuffs hidden underneath (similar details can be found on some Mister Freedom pieces).
Update: Here’s an interesting find on etsy for a jumper with dragon liberty cuffs, a close match to those in the film.
J.Crew has updated its site with new arrivals for spring (some of which is already in stores). The better items include an affordable parka, a multitude of warm weather shirts, more New Balance sneakers, and an updated selection of Corgi socks.
The highlight for me are these roughout suede chukkas and I’m torn between getting a pair of these and the unlined chukka boots on the Leydon last.
Vintage inspired but with a modern fit, these certainly are the real deal. I’ve been wearing one of the Expedition shawl collar sweaters for a couple of weeks now and it has quickly become one of my favorite pieces with the cold wet weather that Seattle has been getting lately.
A closer view of the wool. It looks a bit rough, but I’ve found it to be pretty comfortable.
The shawl collar style was popular with motorcyclists going as far back as the early 1900’s and there are several great examples shown in Rin Tanaka’s Harley-Davidson book.
Described as a roll collar sweater from 1918. Below, another view with a man in the lower left corner wearing a “sweater coat”.
Stockists:
Couverture and the Garbstore (also currently on sale)
The Mandon Store
Mr. Mudd and Mr. Gold