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Category: Men’s Clothing (page 21 of 74)

My Rugged 211

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My Rugged 211 is a new book out in Japan by Minoru Onozato, the chief editor of Free & Easy, and it is essentially a visual reference guide to about 200 pieces of “rugged” clothing and gear from his own collection. Examples include well worn boots, some obscure military jackets, and a selection of surprising designer pieces sprinkled in. The two bonuses of the book: the photography is well done and Onozato focuses in on the details that make the items great, and that the text is published in both Japanese and English.

Is it a must buy? If you’re a vintage enthusiast, it would be a nice addition to your bookshelf, but for more regular folks I think the money spent on the book (it costs roughly $60-65 USD) would be better used on a few issues of Free & Easy instead, many of which will show some of the same pieces shown in the book.

If you’re curious on the format, several Japanese blogs have more pictures:
http://www.bhs-nyc.com/news/2010/09/my-rugged-211.php
http://blog.sweetroad.com/2010/09/my_rugged_211.html
http://ameblo.jp/ware-house/entry-10652465891.html
http://shop.plaza.rakuten.co.jp/vintage-works/diary/detail/201009170000/

Where to find it: contact your local Kinokuniya bookstore.

Reviews for The Ivy Look

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A new book called The Ivy Look was recently published over in Europe and reviews are starting to show up on the web.

From the Trad:

JP Gaul and Graham Marsh have make it their own again and this time they’re inviting everyone. The Ivy Look, like Take Ivy, is an appreciation of what many of us take for granted. Weejuns, button downs, khakis, Jazz, Horween cordovan. And unlike True Prep or the Official Preppy Handbook, the aesthetic here is a quiet whisper of traditional. What is best described as invisible but with style points for those in the know.

From modculture.co.uk:

Now I’m pretty sure both Mr Marsh and Mr Gall aren’t averse to talking about the appropriate rise of trousers, the hang of a jacket or the width of a lapel. The former has been a devotee of the look since mixing with stylish American illustrators in the early 60s, the latter a refugee from the 80s mod scene, inspired by Blue Note sleeves, vintage Esquire and the knowledge of Mr John Simons, a man who has kept ivy’s torch burning for the best part of 50 years. But they’re no fools either. As evangelists for the look, the pair have reined in the desire to preach to the converted, instead producing a fascinating introductory guide to the look, its history and its influence throughout the years and around the world.

From the Independent:

In the book there are numerous examples of how the Ivy look is best done. It’s Miles Davis in a green Oxford cloth button-down shirt on the cover of his 1958 album Milestones. It’s Steve McQueen in a pair of brown-suede crepe-soled boots in the 1968 film Bullitt. And it’s Paul Newman in 1956, displaying effortless Ivy style simply by virtue of his khaki trouser/corduroy jacket combination.

Also be sure to check out TinTin’s interview with the men behind the book (source of the image above). If you would like a copy you’ll have to go through a European bookseller for now.

Engineered Garments FW10 Western Shirts

I recently added a new Engineered Garments western shirt to my ongoing collection – a red mini pane on soft grey flannel. It’s available at Jack Straw in Seattle as part of the Fall/Winter 2010 collection, along with another version in solid white broadcloth.

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Tattersall plaids from MAPS – no known stockists in the U.S.

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Another one from Doo-Bop in a navy mini pane – Legion in LA is so far the only stockist that I’m aware of for this version in the U.S.

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They’re continually difficult to find, so do not sleep on picking one up.

Patterned Trousers for Fall

From Leon, issue December 2008. Patterned trousers might seem difficult, but they can be worked in by pairing them with a non-patterned solid sportcoat or jacket (likewise: when wearing a patterned sportcoat, switch to solid trousers).

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J.Crew New Fall Arrivals

J.Crew has started to roll out some more goods for fall on its website: highlights include the Crescent Down Works vest, chamois shirts, tweed sport coats, plenty of interesting knitwear, and a pricey watch cap from Mister Freedom.

Update: I just tried to put an order through for the navy tweed sportcoat and they’re already out of stock in my size. Why does it feel like I continually run into inventory problems with J.Crew? It’s even worse in their retail stores.

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Peacoats and Melton Wool in Free & Easy

From issues Vol. 12, No. 133 and 134.

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The Barbour Ursula Jacket

I had not heard news of this until now, but it looks like Barbour is releasing a reproduction of the Ursula jacket used by submariners during WW2. I don’t know how faithful the details are to the original, but it’s pretty cool of them do this.

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It will be available through Orvis and other Barbour retailers starting next month.

Waste(twice) Fall/Winter 2010

Waste(twice) has updated their site with images for their naval inspired FW10 collection, “North Sea Heroes”. Click to see larger versions.

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The Grownup’s Hour

Some gems on martinis and family life from an old ad for Beefeater Gin:

Martini men know that the martini can be an ideal introduction to rational discourse among family and friends. Sophisticated diners claim it is the one drink that whets the appetite and prepares the palate for great things to follow…

The great martini, experts agree, is drunk quietly, among friends…

Let the head of the house assume the responsibility for the martini. You can, of course, get someone else to do it – a paid hand on a yacht, a butler if you possess one…

Summon the children just before you mix the martini. Announce to them that it is now grownup’s hour – and they are to pursue their play elsewhere. The martini hour is for those who are going to drink martinis.

It somehow seems appropriate for 1965. Click the image below to see the large version.
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Black Tie, Accessories

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Last week, Simon Crompton had a piece in the more superior British GQ on the importance of following the rules of black tie accessories, particularly in what goes around your waist:

One of the problems is that it can be hard to find a good waist covering. Most places will sell cummerbunds (I recommend Drake’s – make sure you pick the material, grosgrain or satin, that matches your lapels) but it is hard to find waistcoats. A bespoke tailor is, of course, the best option as a waistcoat is one of the hardest things to fit: my personal choices would be Henry Poole or Anderson & Sheppard. Retail, the best resources are probably Ralph Lauren Purple Label or Tom Ford. Both produce separate waistcoats with fantastic detailing and both will do made to measure if you like the style but want a better fit.

It is unfortunate that is difficult to find the proper low cut waistcoat, and I agree that finding a custom tailor to make one for you is your best bet. At retail, Brooks Brothers offers some options as well.

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As for cummerbunds, Drake’s does sell a pretty nice one, but the maker is unimportant as long as you find one in a proper fabric that matches the lapels and bow tie. Make sure when wearing it that the pleats also face upwards.

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