Some older looks from nepenthes.co.jp. They changed the format of this section recently, and it’s not as good as it used to be.
Category: Men’s Clothing (page 30 of 74)
The most versatile of summer patterns? From Men’s Ex:
In case you hadn’t already seen it, Ivy Style posted a short interview today with Jason Lazar, an executive for Harbor Footwear (the company that holds the G.H. Bass & Company license).
This particular section struck me the most:
IS: What about quality? Longtime Weejun wearers are quick to note a steady decline over the past couple of decades.
JL: The Weejun of today is by far the best quality shoe in the marketplace priced under $100. It is a true-moc construction and handsewn on the last. Many consumers may think that the quality has declined over the years due to the fact that the Weejuns are no longer made in the USA, but all materials and workmanship are consistent with the Weejun made years ago.
For argument’s sake, here’s a good refresher: Bass Weejuns vs J.M. Weston Loafers
Now I’m not old enough to know what Weejuns in the 1960’s were like quality wise, but I do know that Weejuns today just look and feel cheap. It probably is true that the construction has remained the same – a moccasin is a moccasin. However, you can tell just by picking up a pair at a store that something is not right; the leather is shiny and plastic like, the insoles may or may not be held in place, and sometimes they even emanate an odd chemical odor (which is most likely a byproduct of the manufacturing process).
No matter how much they spend on ads, Harbor Footwear will be unable to change the perception of how consumers think about their shoes. Problems with this: one, the shoes have no heart and soul, and a marketing campaign full of happy hipsters walking around Williamsburg while wearing Weejuns is not going to help. Two, people will not forget history. And three, unlike American made shoes they can’t educate customers on how or where they’re made – in this case it could be some random factory in the middle of China with cheap leather sourced from a random tannery in India (many of which are places you would never want to visit). We’ll never know who made them, but then again maybe Harbor Footwear doesn’t even care about all of this.
I do know that with all of the other made in the USA options on the market, I will never buy an imported pair of Bass Weejuns.
Pictured, an old Cable Car Clothiers ad from when Weejuns were still made in Maine.
J.Crew has finally put up some high-res images from their lookbook for fall. It looks like you can pre-order these items, and I would guess that their seasonal rollout will start getting to stores later this month.
See previously: J.Crew Fall/Winter 2010 Presentation. Secret Forts had some extra scans up as well.
Also new is a video from the presentation where they highlight a jacket made from blue tweed – an unusual fabric today that was more common decades ago (it’s easy to find vintage J.Press jackets made with it in fact, along with other unusual patterns).
And in other J.Crew news:
– it was announced today in WWD that J.Crew will be working with Imogene + Willie, a high-end line based out of Nashville. Read more on imogeneandwillie.blogspot.com.
– browsing their website today, you might notice that J.Crew has added a new chat feature where you can talk with sales specialists – this is a great idea and will be very convenient to get answers right away instead of having to call. Look for the “chat now” button on the top right corner of the page to see if someone is available.
More companies should take advantage of these types of technologies if they have the resources and staffing available to do so.
Spotted in an older issue of Leon (the recent ones have been no good).
I think this is a good way to work in one of those Saint James nautical sweaters, which can be a bit too bold to be worn on their own.
Previews of the translated Take Ivy reissue are now showing up on the web from some lucky folks who were able to get their hands on advance copies, The Trad being one of them (they also talked him into doing a quick youtube video for it too – nice shirt tintin).
In addition, powerHouse books put up some images of the new version along with another video showing it off on their facebook page.
The rest of us will have to wait for another month or so until they start shipping, but until then you can always check out the Trad’s scans of the Japanese version.
Ben Silver just sent out a wonderful catalog for their large selection of regimental ties. Not only are they the only retailer that does that sort of thing anymore, they’re also one of the few companies in the United States that sell true regimentals where the stripes go down in the direction from the left shoulder down to the right across the heart.
This style originated in England from military associations (and later by school groups) – when the Americans came along, we then reversed the direction of the stripes to go the opposite way. The exact reason why this was done is unknown, but one could assume that it was out of respect or maybe just to look different.
Ben Silver’s striped ties are a perfect 3 1/4 inches in width, not too wide and not too narrow.
On the left, my favorite navy and maroon pattern as worn by the Guards Brigade. “The Household Brigade, organized in 1660 under King Charles II. Composed of Household Cavalry together with regiments of Foot Guards. Regiments entrusted with the privileged task of guarding the Sovereign.” I will stick with my Americanized versions however.
Luciano Barbera has a humorous new blog. Though I don’t know if the man himself is writing it, it’s very well done and is full of great gems:
I would like to add that I would never refer to myself as “stylish.” But my children wanted me to write it so I did. What I would have said is I simply had on the right clothes for the right occasions and didn’t leave them in a crumpled ball at the foot of my bed. If that is style, alright I own to it.
Will from A Suitable Wardrobe has a guest post as well. Hopefully they continue marketing like this.
And on the company’s new website, he also shares some wisdom:
The suit – You do not need me to tell you that the suit is the key element in any gentleman’s wardrobe. So I will tell you a story instead. I had my first suit made for me when I was 24, by the legendary Milanese tailor, Mario Pozzi. It took Mr. Pozzi 6 months to go through the process of fitting me and taking all my measurements. Then he cut the fabric, a beautiful saxony cloth, and personally delivered it to my door. When I tried it on, he and I were both very pleased. Why wouldn’t I be? He was a genius. I was also eager to get back into my street clothes but he gave me this advice. “Put the suit on and keep it on. Wear it for two days straight. Eat in it. Sleep in it. Then it will not just be an exquisite suit. Sarà un tuo vestito – it will be your suit”.
The shirt – I know I have said you can have too many clothes. But I take that back where shirts are concerned. The shirt is a triumph of modern life, like the automobile or the web.
It is easy to put on and take off, quick to wash and easy to store. Plus, shirts look great. A man should own as many shirts as he wishes – the more the better.
I personally have so many shirts that I sometimes walk into my closet, pull one out, and think to myself, “Now where did that come from?” Having lots of shirts will allow you to surprise yourself with your own good taste.Seasonal – Everyone knows you wear wool in the winter, linen in the summer, and a straw hat from June 15th to Labor Day. Everyone is right. And therein lies the problem. Follow these rules and you will look like everyone else. Better that you display a little originality. On the gravest days of winter I put on my gray flannels, a cashmere tie in a sober color and my white linen jacket. The pants keep me warm. The tie gains me entrée into good restaurants. The blazer reminds me that summer will come again.
Mr. Luciano Barbera
With Oi Polloi’s recent sale, the USA flag patterned belt from Engineered Garments that I’ve been eyeing all season came down to a price that I was willing to pay for and it arrived just yesterday afternoon, only six days after placing the order. It’s a really fun piece and the webbing and leather tips seem like they’re high quality.
Made in the USA. I wonder who the manufacturer is?
Note that Oi Polloi’s measurements for the belt are off on their website (the large I have is actually 47″ as opposed to the 43.5″ that it is listed), and I probably could have gone with a medium instead. Tucking the end in will do just fine however.
They still have a full size run of these available – if you order one right now, it might just get to you in time for the 4th of July.
I just came across some interesting pairs of Tricker’s on Starling where the laces have been replaced with elastic. It also does not look like they added heel counters, allowing for some flexibility in the back of the shoe for ease in putting them on. They probably would have looked much better with single leather soles though.
