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Category: Men’s Clothing (page 45 of 74)

I Was Lord Kitchener’s Valet

Besides being a great name for a store, I Was Lord Kitchener’s Valet is largely credited with popularizing the wear of old military uniforms for fashion during the 60’s and was where Jimi Hendrix and a number of other rockers purchased their iconic jackets.

From vam.ac.uk:

Lord Kitchener’s sold racks of tunics, there were boas, those old fox stoles, second hand fur coats, pith helmets, Victorian dresses, bits of Victorian furniture, general junk, some good and some bad. Some people liked wearing secondhand clothes but at first it wasn’t that busy. Then, over a period of time, clothes started to take over from the furniture. Eric Clapton was the first one to buy a military jacket early in 1966 when Cream’s first album came out.

I’m sitting there one morning and in walked John Lennon, Mick Jagger and Cynthia Lennon. And I didn’t know whether I was hallucinating… but it was real. And Mick Jagger bought a red Grenadier guardsman drummer’s jacket, probably for about £4-5. They all came from Moss Bros and British Army Surplus. In 1966 it was only fifty or so years from Victorian times, when we had an empire. We used to buy fur coats by the bale… we had to throw quite a lot away.

So Mick Jagger bought this tunic and wore it on Ready Steady Go when the Stones closed the show by performing Paint it Black. The next morning there was a line of about 100 people wanting to buy this tunic… and we sold everything in the shop by lunchtime.

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And from a youtube video:

“Footage showing the London fashion movement that took place in the late 60s at “I Was Lord Kitchener’s Valet”. Brian Jones was regarded as a fashion icon due to his rebellious and flamboyant style. His style of dress and manner did much to influence the fashion scene of swinging 1960s London. Including footage of Jimi Hendrix playing Like A Rolling Stone and Stone Free, in Chelmsford, England, February 25, 1967.”


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Inspiration

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Rin Tanaka has put together an amazing event for February:

The kulture recycling & vintage fashion event “Inspiration” will be hosted by Rin Tanaka, the author of the “My Freedamn!” book series. Under the big theme of his life, “vintage fashion,” this event will be held at one of the coolest “event halls” in Los Angeles, “Barker Hanger,” which is located inside Santa Monica Airport. As the photo on this page shows, this vintage-looking space is mostly used as vintage airplane storage for repair crews, but on February 12th and 13th, 2010, this huge indoor space (capacity: 3,000 people) will be filled with many vintage fashion fans from around the world!

During this two-day show, a total of 60 vendors and exhibitors will set up unique and very special booths displaying their own inspiration: 35 vintage fashion dealers, 10 designer & artist booths, 8 charity garage sales, and 7 special exhibitions. Their business concept in this vintage atmosphere is to “buy and sell inspiration.” Actually, many “kulture recycling” products, mainly vintage American fashions manufactured in the 1910s-1980s, will be displayed everywhere in this hall. Vintage fans will get amazing opportunities to view so many vintage items. Most items will be “for sale,” except for special exhibition decorations.

Read more about it and purchase tickets on inspirationla.com. I’d fly down for this if I wasn’t tied up at work. ;_;

Shoe Videos of Edward Green, John Lobb, Cleverley



2nd’s Crockett and Jones Factory Visit

Scans from an issue of 2nd, spring 2009.

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Grey Suits – Zegna FW10

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More images are available on GQ.

Rugby’s Scout Deck Jacket

Rugby has a great looking yellow parka up for spring called the scout deck jacket. It’s very similar in design to Barbour’s Kagoule jacket, but at half the price.

Ralph Lauren Rugby Yellow Parka

The Aran Sweater Story Continued – Stitches at Sea

Here’s another great article on the background of Aran sweaters. From Stitches at Sea, by Linda Cortright:

Up until the latter part of the 20th century, most islanders (total population 1,218) were still engaged in either fishing or farming – each one presenting a formidable set of challenges. But times have changed all that and tourism is now the main source of income for most. Subsistence farmers along with their livestock have all but disappeared, and only a few fishermen still uphold the same traditions sustained by their forbearers.

Yet, with so many ways of old having all but vanished, the Aran sweater flourishes as never before – thanks in part to the souvenir seeking tourist who can nab an “Aran” sweater – Made in China – with wool from Australia, like it was a pashmina from a New York City street vendor.

There is also this interesting bit on the wool that Inis Meain uses for their sweaters:

Although their sweaters are elegantly designed, and carried by the finest stores, from trendy boutiques in Tokyo to high-end shops in Milan, the wool non longer comes from the local sheep, in fact not even Irish sheep. Tarlach recalls, “By the early 1980s we had to stop using Irish wool, it was just too scratchy for the average consumer.” Now, the f wool they use has crested to the luxury of cashmere and alpaca, almost all of which is imported from Michell & Co. in Peru; a leading manufacturer in luxury yarns.

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Related posts:
Aran Sweater Myths
Inis Meáin Kniting Company

Yuketen Spring/Summer 2010 Preview

New pictures from Oi Polloi. I particularly like the bags.

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See more on flickr.

More News from Pitti – EG, ts(s), and more

Bruce Pask has some interesting scoops from Pitti on what to expect from Engineered Garments and ts(s) this next year. From the NYTimes Style Magazine:

“Engineered Garments, always a favorite, continued the performance-driven kick with techy tweeds inspired by cycling, with jacket flaps buttoning under pockets, attached hoods and trousers with windbreaking knit cuffs. Short pant silhouettes here were modeled on retro football uniforms as well as classic ghurka shorts. Long socks and leggings seem to be key in pulling off this eccentric yet appealing look, as the designer Daiki Suzuki stylishly showed, wearing his shorts with striped socks and classic lace-ups. He teamed up with the classic American outerwear maker Golden Bear for their first line of leather jackets.

“Another Tokyo-based line TS(S) played with quilted nylon, brushed herringbone linens, heavy cotton twills and wool tweeds to create an inspiring riot of textures in dandified sporty silhouettes and, yes, winter-weight shorts. A hiking boot collaboration with the designer Takahiro Miyashita of the recently retired Number (N)ine collection hinted at a highly anticipated project of his in the works.

Golden Bear leather jackets for Engineered Garments and Takahiro Miyashita working with Takuji Suzuki? Fall/Winter 2010 is going to be an amazing season for fans.

Continue reading more.

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Woolrich Woolen Mills Fall/Winter 2010 Presentation

Pictures from the Woolrich Woolen Mills FW10 presentation are finally out and the looks are all very surprising. According to the Moment, Daiki Suzuki was inspired by early collections from Comme des Garçons and if I hadn’t had known it was Suzuki that designed them, I would have personally guessed that they were pieces from Junya Watanabe (former protégé to Rei Kawakubo of CdG).
Woolrich Woolen Mills Fall/Winter 2010 Presentation
Check out the pictures here. More will probably show up online later over the next few days.

In related news, WWD is reporting that Daiki Suzuki’s last collection for Woolrich Woolen Mills will be Spring/Summer 2011. Who in menswear can take over the reins?

Woolrich Woolen Mills is parting with designer Daiki Suzuki, who created the men’s collection with Woolrich licensee WP Lavori in Corso. Suzuki’s five-year contract lasts through spring 2011, but the parties are already working together to identify a succession plan. “I grew up admiring and wearing Woolrich, and to come full circle and design for them has been a really great adventure,” Suzuki said. “My contract will expire when the spring ’11 collection is completed, and I feel it is time for someone else to take the reins.”

I’m expecting that the last collection will be spectacular.

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