While watching clips from the famous surf documentary Pacific Vibrations, I remembered another great one – The Endless Summer. A quick search brought me to news that it has recently been digitally remastered and is available for download in iTunes.
John Severson, founder of Surfer magazine, shares with LIFE magazine his views on work, success, and family in 1966.
“Each year when you go back to the surf, there is a certain amount of fear of the waves to conquer. Anyone who hasn’t been on the waves in quite a while and says he’s not afraid when he first returns is a liar.”
“I had an attache case once and found that the more I kept it around, the more things I found to put in it and bring home from the office. So I put it away and get along just fine without it.”