Riding the Crest of Surfing’s Wave

John Severson, founder of Surfer magazine, shares with LIFE magazine his views on work, success, and family in 1966.


“Each year when you go back to the surf, there is a certain amount of fear of the waves to conquer. Anyone who hasn’t been on the waves in quite a while and says he’s not afraid when he first returns is a liar.”

“I had an attache case once and found that the more I kept it around, the more things I found to put in it and bring home from the office. So I put it away and get along just fine without it.”

Source: LIFE. You can also see some of his artwork on surferart.com.

This entry was posted in Culture and tagged , , . Bookmark the permalink. Both comments and trackbacks are currently closed.