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The Panama Hat Craze

Panama Hat Weave
The Strand Magazine, published in 1902, reporting on the newest fad of the time – the Panama hat:

One hundred pounds for a straw hat! Enough with which to take a three months’ holiday, enough to keep your son a year at college, enough to buy a small farm. And yet so astute a financier as Mr. Lyman Gage, ex-Secretary of the U.S. Treasury, recently paid that sum for an extra-fine Panama hat, and reckoned, moreover, that he had made a good bargain. King Edward VII also is reported to have paid a Bond Street hatter £90 to secure “the best Panama in London”; while Jean de Reszke, the noted tenor, has paid the topmost price—something under £120 — to procure a similar object in America. Ex – Mayor Van Wyck, of New York, is chuckling over his success in securing a Panama which dealers have told him is superior in quality to either King Edward’s or the one owned by Jean de Reszke. He paid only £50.

These instances of extravagance are not mentioned as a reflection upon the perpetrators, but merely to illustrate the extent of “the Panama hat craze,” one of the most expensive fashions ever adopted by men. Expensive, because a Panama of even medium quality cannot be had for less than £5, and if you aim at having one that maybe tucked away in a vest pocket like a lead pencil, or slipped through a finger-ring, the price is, to most persons, prohibitive. In spite of this costliness, however, Panama hats are being dispatched from South America absolutely in ship-loads, and about half the population of Ecuador are engaged in supplying hat luxuries for the men of Europe and America.

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Superior Labor Engineer Bag at 2 Years

My Superior Labor engineer bag is just shy of two years of age now – it’s still going strong with regular use and the leather has continued to develop a great patina (compare to how it started out).

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Related Post: My Engineer Bag at 1 Year

Warehouse, K&TH, Heller’s Café

New pieces in at J.Crew.

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Naval History Inspirations

Unofficial Insignia – Liberty Cuffs and Diesel Boats Forever

World War II sailors sewed hidden patches under the sleeve cuffs of their dress blue jumpers. Once on leave, they unbuttoned their “liberty cuffs” and turned them over to display colorful dragons, mermaids, dolphins (for submariners), and birds (for the “airedales” who worked on Navy aircraft). The practice of liberty cuffs continued into the early 1980s, except for a short period in the early 1970s, when the Navy attempted to do away with the blue and white jumpers and replace them with jackets similar to those worn by officers. – Carol Burke, in Camp all-American, Hanoi Jane, and the High-and-Tight

Dragons are very common and easy to find, along with mermaids. My favorite design that I’ve spotted so far were these Hawaii themed patches (I lost that ebay auction).

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Très Bien at Pitti Uomo

And now Très Bien has begun to upload pictures of their trip to Pitti Uomo 80. Along with Bruce Pask’s reports, these are always a great way to get a peak at what’s next for upcoming seasons – my favorite so far is this (reversible?) camo sportcoat from Engineered Garments. Update: looks like some pictures have been removed.

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FrenchTrotters at Pitti Uomo

The guys from FrenchTrotters recently published a great video of their trip to Pitti – it’s worth a watch if you’ve been following coverage and is probably the best piece of visual media I’ve seen from this season’s show.

NYTimes Coverage of Pitti Uomo 80

Reports from Bruce Pask, in two parts:

The Situation at Pitti

Woolrich Woollen Mills, showing for the first time at Pitti in parent company WP Lavori in Corso’s brand new pavilion, featured shockingly vibrant African tribal printed camp shirts, scarves and neckties paired with khaki trousers and safari-style jackets. The designer Mark McNairy capped one look with an olive canvas and mesh bucket hat cleverly reminiscent of a Pith helmet, but was actually inspired by the signature headgear of J.J. from the TV series “Good Times.” The collection was absolutely “Dy-no-mite,” as J.J. would say.

At Pitti, Innovation and Inspiration

Engineered Garments, another show favorite, did an amazing group of polka-dotted clothing that played with size and scale. Cotton sport jackets, shirts, shorts, pants and ties — in differing sizes of dots, in bold navy and white or a more quiet, chic khaki and white — can be combined for bold, strong looks or worn separately as accent pieces. Make mine a combo, please.

The Man Who Stole the Soul of a 300 SLR

Great story on some fascinating photography work:

Early that year, Bernhard got a phone call from the museum and was asked if he wants to photograph 30 cars for an exhibition catalogue. He said yes. The museum built him a studio in a storage facility, outside Vienna. The setup, 20 meters long and 15 meters wide, had a moving stage, like a turn table. The project took 5 months to finish, but only because part of the cars, spread all over the world, were brought in only shortly before the exhibition, to avoid huge costs for insurances.

On using light:

With the help of two assistants, he photographed one automobile per day (5-6 images only). The most difficult to shoot were the black cars on the black background. But white wouldn’t have been an option. Photographing high-shine convex or concave surfaces is amongst the biggest challenges in product photography. It’s not anymore about putting light on the object, but about letting the shiny object reflect the surfaces around it. In this particular case, the light had to be bounced back on the cars from a white reflecting surface used as a ceiling.

Great results:

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Summer Suiting

Good reading from Bernhard Roetzel on the summer suit:

Many gentlemen will hesitate to don a linen suit unless they stay in Capri or Sorrento. It is rather a matter of colour than of material whether a linen suit will look out of place on the summerly streets of New York, London, Brussels oder Zurich. A blue linen suit would be suitable in all of these towns, just like a garment in darker colours like tan or tobacco. Only the white linen suit might look a bit out of place, especially for office wear. In New York one will find another classic summer suit that is almost invisible elsewhere. The American answer to the Italian linen suit is the the single-breasted seersucker suit. It is named after the cloth that it is made of. To create the typical wrinkled effect the base threads are stretched while the weft threads are looser.

There is a lack of selection in lighter summer fabrics for American RTW suits, and I wish we had something else besides seersucker. Luckily, European companies are much more adventurous – some selections from Kiton:

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Pancho Gonzales

Wearing some old and classic sportswear – tennis sweaters, sneakers, gurkha shorts, and even a Fred Perry polo. Background reading:

A 1999 Sports Illustrated article about the magazine’s 20 “favorite athletes” of the 20th century said about Gonzales (their number 15 pick): “If earth was on the line in a tennis match, the man you want serving to save humankind would be Ricardo Alonso Gonzalez.”

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