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Tweeds To Look Forward To

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Earlier this year, Christian over on Ivy Style showed previews of what to expect from Ralph Lauren and Brooks Brothers for this fall and I’ve had some of those tweed jackets on my mind ever since. The natural shoulders on a few of them is what appeals to me the most I think – never minding the technical merits of shoulder construction, jackets without heavy padding are more comfortable to me and only because they don’t feel like I’m actually wearing something formal that needs to be fussed over.

Ideally I think I only need two types for now: one in a grey herringbone tweed and another in navy (perhaps that J.Crew jacket being sold later this year will do alright). When I’m older, I can then look for something in brown and another in green. Seeing how long these sorts of jackets last, I could probably do pretty well with just a few.

On a side note, I do worry about how difficult it will be to purchase some of this. Often it seems the more interesting items like these never make it into the normal retail distribution chains, save for a few flagship stores (and hardly ever available online). Here’s to hoping that they don’t mess it up.

Engineered Garments x Golden Bear SS11

Jake Davis has a great preview of some the leather accented pieces in the Engineered Garments Spring/Summer 2011 collection, go check it out.

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Golden Bear produces some questionable pieces, but I take it as a good sign that the EG guys were happy enough with the leather jackets made for them in the Fall/Winter 2010 collection that they would continue their relationship for another season. I’m hoping that the new explorer jacket (shown below on the left) will be stocked by at least one U.S. store.

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Related post: Engineered Garments Fall/Winter 2010 Lookbook

J.Crew’s New Arrivals for Fall

J.Crew’s fall rollout has begun and they updated their website last night with new arrivals. Most of it is expected basics, but there are a few interesting gems: a denim western shirt, copies of Take Ivy, printed Hill-Side pocket squares, and socks from Saint James. The footwear lineup is also becoming more impressive, with new models from Alden and Russell Moccasins.

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Except for the crepe soles, these remind me a bit of the roughout boots worn by some servicemen during WW2.

Progressive Clothing Denim

S2W8’s store blog has some pictures of a new pair of jeans from Engineered Garments’ smaller Progressive Clothing line. Made in NYC, various types of Cone Mills denim are arranged in a way to make them look like old school four panel “fun” shirts and pants. Even the selvage edges have different colored threads.

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Last year, the only known pieces under the Progressive Clothing line were the suit jacket, pants, and shorts made by Southwick.

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Related posts:
Engineered Garments flannel fun shirt
Engineered Garments Fall/Winter 2010 Lookbook

Red Wing in Last, Free & Easy

Scans from factory visits in Last (Volume 12) and Free & Easy (July 2010). The Free & Easy piece focused on the new postman inspired shoes, and for now in Japan will be exclusive to the Rugged Museum.

red_wing_1 Read more

45rpm Fall 2010 Lookbook

Now available online.

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Boots for War Correspondents

The guys over on 37signals picked up on an interesting tidbit in the all of the recent reporting on General McChrystal. It seems the choice of footwear among war correspondents are boots from R.M. Williams:

Among his peers, Dexter, who is writing from Kabul, is regarded as one of the very best (some would say the best) of the band of brothers and sisters who have gone to war with their pens and notebooks, their flak jackets and helmets and R. M. Williams boots (from Australia, and by habit heavily scuffed; they are as indispensable to this generation of war correspondents and photographers as the dangling cigarette was to the generation of Ernie Pyle).

R.M. Williams are known for their sturdy boots, and make a popular slip-on chelsea model. Their Rigger boots:
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NDG-1 Smoke

I eschew those short rectangular eyeglasses that many wear – if you’re going to go through the trouble of wearing a pair, they might as well be bold and the NDG-1’s from Oliver Peoples continue to be one of the nerdiest models you can buy.

First introduced in 2008 in collaboration with Nom de Guerre, I’ve since purchased two pairs (the latest set being the glossy black/clear gradient called “smoke”) and will probably acquire a third next spring if they’re still being made then.

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They’re not shown on the website, but any Oliver Peoples dealer can order them for you. If you’d like a similar pair but with shorter front, look for the Denison model.

That New Gant x Bastian Line

Alex Grant put up a preview yesterday of the new Gant x Bastian collection that’s in the next issue of GQ, go check it out. It’s all great looking stuff and I hope my local Barney’s will have some of it, but I can’t believe it’s being sold as an affordable alternative to Bastian’s own line. Here are some of the prices: $300 for windbreakers, $300 for denim, $150 for knit ties, $700 for sportcoats. Someone at Gant, their PR firm, or GQ is being naive (or quite possibly all of them).

There’s nothing wrong with charging those amounts if the pieces are well made, but it’s certainly not within the reach of the younger customer this line is targeting. Instead, those guys are going to skip right over this stuff and head to places like J.Crew or Uniqlo.

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A Practical Axe Manual

For those of you who might have purchased one of those fancy axes from Best Made Co. or Gränsfors and need some tips on how to use it properly, check out this manual written for the USDA Forest Service. It covers axe history, safety, sharpening, and chopping techniques.

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