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Year: 2010 (page 12 of 46)

Captain Roald Amundsen and Crew

From a picture taken during his stop in Nome, Alaska after completing a three year long journey through the Northwest Passage. His ship, Gjøa, was the first to do so successfully.

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He would later be the first to reach the South Pole.

Related Post: Shackleton, Peary, and Amundsen in Meeting

The Barbour Ursula Jacket

I had not heard news of this until now, but it looks like Barbour is releasing a reproduction of the Ursula jacket used by submariners during WW2. I don’t know how faithful the details are to the original, but it’s pretty cool of them do this.

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It will be available through Orvis and other Barbour retailers starting next month.

Waste(twice) Fall/Winter 2010

Waste(twice) has updated their site with images for their naval inspired FW10 collection, “North Sea Heroes”. Click to see larger versions.

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The Navy Art Collection

From the Naval History and Heritage Command: “The Navy Art Collection has over 15,000 paintings, prints, drawings, and sculpture. It contains depictions of naval ships, personnel, and action from all eras of U.S. naval history, but due to the operation of the Combat Art Program, the eras of World War II, the Korean War, the Vietnam War, and Desert Shield/Storm are particularly well represented.”

Military artists were just recently featured in the NYTimes as well: With Sketchpads and Guns, Semper Fi

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The Grownup’s Hour

Some gems on martinis and family life from an old ad for Beefeater Gin:

Martini men know that the martini can be an ideal introduction to rational discourse among family and friends. Sophisticated diners claim it is the one drink that whets the appetite and prepares the palate for great things to follow…

The great martini, experts agree, is drunk quietly, among friends…

Let the head of the house assume the responsibility for the martini. You can, of course, get someone else to do it – a paid hand on a yacht, a butler if you possess one…

Summon the children just before you mix the martini. Announce to them that it is now grownup’s hour – and they are to pursue their play elsewhere. The martini hour is for those who are going to drink martinis.

It somehow seems appropriate for 1965. Click the image below to see the large version.
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Black Tie, Accessories

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Last week, Simon Crompton had a piece in the more superior British GQ on the importance of following the rules of black tie accessories, particularly in what goes around your waist:

One of the problems is that it can be hard to find a good waist covering. Most places will sell cummerbunds (I recommend Drake’s – make sure you pick the material, grosgrain or satin, that matches your lapels) but it is hard to find waistcoats. A bespoke tailor is, of course, the best option as a waistcoat is one of the hardest things to fit: my personal choices would be Henry Poole or Anderson & Sheppard. Retail, the best resources are probably Ralph Lauren Purple Label or Tom Ford. Both produce separate waistcoats with fantastic detailing and both will do made to measure if you like the style but want a better fit.

It is unfortunate that is difficult to find the proper low cut waistcoat, and I agree that finding a custom tailor to make one for you is your best bet. At retail, Brooks Brothers offers some options as well.

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As for cummerbunds, Drake’s does sell a pretty nice one, but the maker is unimportant as long as you find one in a proper fabric that matches the lapels and bow tie. Make sure when wearing it that the pleats also face upwards.

Black Tie, General MacArthur

From LIFE, taken on the evening of his 76th birthday at the Waldorf-Astoria. He had kept a suite there during the 50’s and 60’s.

General MacArthur in Black Tie

Black Tie, Modern

Tailor Caid had some pictures of a tux that was made for a client that in my mind is perfect for a modern look. The lapels are somewhat narrow, all of the classic details are there, and nothing looks outrageous.

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Black Tie, Gone a Bit Too Far

From some older Ralph Lauren ads. Of course they’re over the top and should not be copied head to toe, but there are elements of each that are useful as a guide now that black tie season is starting up.

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The Arrow Collar Man

The Arrow Collar Man… an early advertising concept and model that preceded the Marlboro Man. From Wikipedia:

The Arrow Collar Man was the name given to the various male models who appeared in advertisements for shirts and detachable shirt collars manufactured by Cluett Peabody & Company of Troy, New York. The original campaign ran from 1905-31 though the company continued to refer to men in its ads and its consumers as “Arrow men” much later.

The Arrow Collar ads were a collaborative production of New York ad agency Calkins and Holden; Cluett, Peabody advertising director Charles Connolly; and commercial illustrator J. C. Leyendecker… President Theodore Roosevelt referred to him as a “superb portrait of the common man”.

He was what American men aspired to be, and most importantly, he always had on the right shirt.

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