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Category: Men’s Clothing (page 28 of 74)

Twitter Roundup

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Some things that you might have missed if you’re not following me on twitter:

News

– The new Hickey Freeman? Do Men Want Boxy or Bold?

Are Designer Sunglasses Worth It? A look at the business of Luxottica and eyewear.

– Workroom has a preview of Garbstore’s SS11 collection.

Inverallan goes out of business: “After many years of business we have decided to retire. Many thanks to all our loyal customers.” Update: It sounds like they might stay in business, but are closing their mail/internet order system. Stay tuned.

– Superior Labor has a new bag design which could be great for camera gear.

– The Real McCoy’s updated their website for FW10.

– More on those awesome Makr stools.

– New blogs you should follow: Suitorial and Gentleman’s Gazette.

Shopping

– The hard to find EG Newport jackets from last year are on Yoox.

– Sak’s has a few Polo Ralph Lauren navy blazers in larger sizes on sale.

– J.Crew is selling some new shell cordovan Alden boots.

Photo by Steve Benisty for the Wall Street Journal.

Never Skimp on Time and Effort

Locals Only currently has a special edition of Superior Labor’s market bag model showing that stenciling patterns or text onto a simple tote can be a great way to make it more interesting.

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More pictures on Aeropostale.

Engineered Garments Sweatshirts

Among my favorite pieces from Engineered Garments are their seasonal sweatshirts. I’ve collected quite a few over the years in all sorts of different materials and colors, and they continue to hold up well to constant wear. The large cuffs and waistbands are vintage inspired, and on the crewnecks instead of a typical stitched “V”, the collar uses an ingenious overlapping seam along the front to prevent it from being stretched out.

Except for some earlier versions which had very short sleeves, they fit how a sweatshirt should fit – not too slim, but not too loose.

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There are two sources of manufacturers for these: the plain cotton sweatshirts above were all made in the U.S, and the fleece versions below were made in Canada (reportedly by CYC edit: Ryan tells me some other folks make them).

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I’m hoping that they’ll eventually reissue more plain cotton versions so that I can replace some of my older dog-eared ones. Stuart and Wright currently have a few crewnecks left from the current season on sale.

Baseball in the early 20th Century

A selection of random baseball pictures from between 1900-1930. Some of the portraits are very powerful.

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vintage_baseball_style_07 Read more

The Handmade Myth

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LVMH recently got into a bit of trouble in Europe for advertising their products as being handmade by small workshop artisans when in truth, a majority of their products are made on assembly lines:

There’s just one tiny detail missing. Hardly any Vuitton bags or wallets are handmade. While reporting an article on Vuitton in 2004, I visited one of its factories in the village of Ducey near Mont St. Michel. There I saw rows of workers seated at sewing machines, stitching together machine-cut pieces of canvas and leather. The partially finished bags were rolled from one workstation to the next on metal carts.

Britain’s Advertising Standards Authority then ordered them to stop not long after the ad campaign started:

The bureaucrats paid to protect the public from flimflammery declared this to be a fraud. “[C]onsumers would interpret the image of a woman using a needle and thread to stitch the handle of a bag,” the agency ruled, “to mean that Louis Vuitton bags were hand stitched.”

Fair enough, but one can’t help but think that the Standards Authority was just attempting to protect Savile Row and Northhampton craftsman, many of whom use machines for their own “handmade” work. The word is very ambiguous in marketing these days and it’s probably too late to protect it now.

What even counts as being handmade? Despite what notions we like to think of, most goods sold today were probably touched by a machine at some point – shoes need to be welted, jeans need to be sewn, and buttons need to be punched. These sorts of things should be encouraged though, as it helps efficiency (and in theory, better prices for consumers). A little leeway should be alright; after all, handwork is still involved somewhere along the way and a machine can still not beat the experience of a seamstress who has the finesse to finish those delicate details or the tailor who knows how to cut the fabric just right.

Engineered Garments Fall/Winter 2010 Lookbook

The Engineered Garments lookbook for FW10 is now available online, along with the images for the FWK collection. The bike messenger inspired pieces are very surprising and would be perfect for a tweed run.

The more newer interesting stuff:
– Hartford 3/4 pants, bike knicker shorts, utility pants
– Explorer jacket, Ashfield jacket, fireman shirt jacket, bike jacket, storm parka
– Fedora with ear flaps

The belts with the sterling silver buckles are back as well.

Engineered Garments Fall Winter 2010 1 Read more

Woolrich Woolen Mills FW10 is Shipping

Stores in Europe are starting to receive the first of their shipments for WWM FW10. It will probably take a few more weeks before it starts to show up in the U.S.

From End Clothing:

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From Frans Boone:

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Update: Oi Polloi now has in a few shirts and pairs of the ranger pants.

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Unstructured Jackets for Summer

The unstructured jacket is a perfect solution to summer time heat when a formal appearance is still needed. What to look for: unlined, or partial lining; no padding; fabric should be cottons, linens, or tropical wool. Tailoring is particularly important to get the look just right, as the jacket will drape from the shoulders. The inevitable wrinkles can be easily steamed out at the end of the day.

A Brunello Cucinelli jacket featured in a recent T Magazine piece.

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Examples from Men’s Ex.

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Silver Slide Buckles

It needs a good polishing, but I finally got around to getting a new belt for this sterling silver slide buckle that I’ve had lying around unused for the past few years. Made in England like the best of them, it was purchased from J.Crew of all places back when they attempted to sell a small selection of high end goods under their own name. An engraving will come next.

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Below, an example of one being worn from Ralph Lauren. These types of buckles are usually very small (about an 1″ or so in height), but they provide a nice visual break for your clothing when worn. The other benefit to these is that the leather straps can be easily switched out with other colors/materials.

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A few buckle options available to purchase online:
Sid Mashburn, $175. Also available in a lesser expensive brass.
Brooks Brothers, $228.
Tiffany & Co, $215.
Ralph Lauren, $150.

Both Brooks Brothers and Sid Mashburn sell the needed 1″ leather belt straps.

Hats Off to Ecuador

A short piece on panama hats from an issue of The Rotarian in 1956:

The next time you put on that crisp, cool “Panama” hat, remember to thank the Ecuadorians – they made it! This year their South American country will produce 4 million hats, 90 percent of which will be exported to the United States. And, as it has every year, Panama will get the credit. One story has it that Ferdinand de Lesseps, builder of the Panama Canal, bought Ecuadorian straws in Panama marketplaces; others engaged on that project followed suit – and the vogue was born. The toquilla straw of Ecuador became known as the “Panama” – and the name has stuck.

Click on the image to view the full version.
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