Against my better judgment, I ended up ordering another pair of knicker shorts this season. I’ve come to prefer them when up in mountains as they allow for more freedom of movement and plus they flat out look cool.
From Engineered Garments (the pair I just received). The cotton fabric is pretty thick and is the same type used in their fatigue pants.
More looks for ts(s) Fall/Winter 2010. Context will be carrying this line for the upcoming season.
From the May 2010 issue.
Some things from last week that you might have missed if you’re not following me on twitter:
– Speaking of gems, check out what the Bureau still has lying around from past seasons: Link. It’s too bad that Raf Simons can’t put out cool stuff like those parkas anymore. (no idea if they’re actually for sale or not)
– Simon Crompton gets his shoes back from Edward Green: Link
– Cool naval/military inspired bags: Link
– Jasper Johns on Secret Forts: Link
– NYTimes T Magazine finds out what bloggers are using for their cameras: Link. I’m shopping for a new camera now, and I’m torn between the usefulness of a Canon Rebel, the snob appeal of a Leica point and shoot, and a gadget lust for an Olympic EP-2.
– Cliff Grodd, the legendary president of Paul Stuart passes away: Link
It will be impossible to walk into that store and not feel his presence in every perfect detail. It is the end of an era with his passing, and he will be greatly missed by the many well-dressed gentlemen whose life he touched.
Rakuten and Yahoo Auctions Japan can turn up some real gems on occasion if you watch them long enough. Like this for example: a vintage Engineered Garments parka/fishing smock. It’s always fun to see these earlier pieces show up as it was very difficult to find this stuff back then (North America distribution for Engineered Garments did not really pick up until 2007/2008).
These white canvas boots from Grenson showed up on ebay this last week, coincidentally right after my recent cricket post. Of course they’re not in my size.
Just officially announced – Mark McNairy will succeed Daiki Suzuki as creative director for Woolrich Woolen Mills. Source: WWD and WoolrichInc.
The Spring/Summer 2011 collection will be the last one that Daiki works on, as previously reported by WWD.
Thoughts: Mark McNairy was a good choice and potentially some great pieces could come out of this. Questions: Will he keep the line true to its roots, or will he take it in his own direction? Will signature designs like the upland or Maine guide jackets be scrapped?
Mark McNairy, in Free & Easy September 2009
If you missed it, tintin recently got to sit down with G. Bruce Boyer and Robert Bryan to judge a selection of chinos from a few different companies including LL Bean, Bills Khakis, Brooks Brothers, and J.Press.
A recap:
Personally when I’m looking for chinos for myself, the main two qualities that I care about are fit and fabric. Though nice to have, details such as pocket flaps or button flys are unimportant, and authenticity even less. Just give me simple, slim, and sturdy chinos. That’s it. The best I’ve ever tried on that met this criteria was a pair from RRL; I passed on these however, as they came with the usual RRL price tag (which was somewhere north of $300).
A vintage Lee ad from 1953. “Steel foreman and his family demonstrate the good looks and comfort of America’s most modern work clothes.”
The worst of the worst or the best of the best? Not many stores are selling patchwork versions these days besides Ralph Lauren (coincidentally, there is a good one on sale now), but J.Crew and Rugby both have some slightly safer non-patchwork versions available. I only have one in my wardrobe, which is probably one too many.
Originally there were matching shorts that were sold alongside it, but I thought that might have been taking it too far. The jacket is unstructured and unlined, which is really how they should be.
A background on the fabric, from an essay written for Land’s End in 1989:
The bleeding Madras fad of the 1950’s and ’60’s, brought the world’s attention to Madras, both the cloth and the city. And in the cloth’s heyday, over 150,000 new plaid patterns were fashioned, using homemade vegetable dyes that bled, ran and blended to create a stunning effect. (“Cool” was the word we used, way back then.) Today, of course, Madras no longer bleeds, because it is dyed with man-made, color-fast dyes.
But this, really, is the only difference, between then and now, in the making of the cloth.
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