The Bureau is starting to put up its shipment from ts(s), the first piece being the olive peak lapel sportcoat that’s featured here. The windowpane pattern looks excellent, but I can’t help but notice what looks to be like working buttons on the cuffs (making alterations a pain) and the shorter than expected measurements – us taller folks who need long sleeves will probably have to skip out on these.
See more looks from the ts(s) Spring/Summer 2010 collection here: Part 1, Part 2
In the new issue of Free & Easy (all about tweed, post coming soon) there is a short section called “Merry Xmas, Mr. Leather” which has an overview of the leather trade as well as bios on some very talented artisans. I hope they revisit this topic in the future with an issue devoted to small leather goods.
Simon Crompton has been writing some wonderful pieces lately – first is an article for Rake about the people behind Kiton, and another one on the inner workings of Turnbull & Asser’s custom shirt program.
The Rake: Inside the world of Kiton
Kiton is unique, an anomaly. It is a family. While many European companies can claim that, with Kiton it is pervasive. From the history, to the management, to the obsessive business model that maintains control over everything.
Factory visit: Turnbull & Asser shirts
When a new customer’s measurements arrive at the Gloucester factory they are entered into CAD (computer-aided design) system. David Gale’s team at Bury Street in London sends in old-fashioned paper patterns. New York sends measurements by email. There isn’t much advantage to either, but those from America certainly get to Gloucester quicker (particularly given Britain’s striking postal service)…
Paul Stuart always has some of the best knitwear on the market and they often use the top UK firms to produce them. I’m hoping that they’ll still have these two in stock when I’m in Chicago early next year.
Udeshi of London has just launched a new website showing more of the company’s wares, and an online store is promised in the new year. Headed by Oscar Udeshi, the company uses artisans throughout the UK to create classic goods with a dash of eccentricity and my favorites from them include their shirts, cuff links, and outerwear.
A few interesting finds from eBay. I’ve refrained from buying any for myself – not because they’re pointless, but because I’m worried I’d turn myself into a collector of old, non functioning watches.
An early Christmas gift… for myself. :)
This particular Alden branded wallet is made from shell cordovan and is big enough to hold about 2-3 dollars in change. I’m usually fumbling around my pockets for change when I’m picking stuff up at the market, and hopefully this will help. They’re available at Blackbird, along with a few other accessories.
Stores in Japan have started to receive their first deliveries from the Engineered Garments spring/summer 2010 collection. Here are a few pictures that have showed up over the weekend and expect more this next week! Stores in the U.S. should be getting in there first shipments in January. Related post: Preview of Engineered Garments SS2010.
After I finished college and started to explore traditional men’s clothing a bit more, knit ties were one of the last hold outs – I just didn’t see a point in wearing them, especially when my regimental stripe ties seemed to work well with everything already. Like the rest of the more interesting things in my wardrobe, that eureka moment finally hit and I now own more knit ties than I do regular ones.
What I’ve learned: knit ties are useful in making a formal appearance look casual, and they also add extra texture to an outfit when variety is needed. The solid colored ties look better than those with the dots, and those with the dots look better than those with the stripes. Stick with widths between 2-3″ inches, anything wider and the tie becomes a bit unwieldy. J.Crew’s knit ties are sometimes difficult to get good knots out of, Ralph Lauren’s are generally safe to go with, and those made by Gallo and Drake’s of London are top notch but pricey.
Available on Orvis.com for just under $100. I bought the olive colored version when they first introduced these back in 2008 and it’s been nice to pair up with my casual tweed jackets for this time of the year. There was a similar vest done by Band of Outsiders last year as well, but it retailed for almost 4.5x the price.
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