Spotted in an older issue of Leon (the recent ones have been no good).
I think this is a good way to work in one of those Saint James nautical sweaters, which can be a bit too bold to be worn on their own.
Page 41 of 97
Previews of the translated Take Ivy reissue are now showing up on the web from some lucky folks who were able to get their hands on advance copies, The Trad being one of them (they also talked him into doing a quick youtube video for it too – nice shirt tintin).
In addition, powerHouse books put up some images of the new version along with another video showing it off on their facebook page.
The rest of us will have to wait for another month or so until they start shipping, but until then you can always check out the Trad’s scans of the Japanese version.
Ben Silver just sent out a wonderful catalog for their large selection of regimental ties. Not only are they the only retailer that does that sort of thing anymore, they’re also one of the few companies in the United States that sell true regimentals where the stripes go down in the direction from the left shoulder down to the right across the heart.
This style originated in England from military associations (and later by school groups) – when the Americans came along, we then reversed the direction of the stripes to go the opposite way. The exact reason why this was done is unknown, but one could assume that it was out of respect or maybe just to look different.
Ben Silver’s striped ties are a perfect 3 1/4 inches in width, not too wide and not too narrow.
On the left, my favorite navy and maroon pattern as worn by the Guards Brigade. “The Household Brigade, organized in 1660 under King Charles II. Composed of Household Cavalry together with regiments of Foot Guards. Regiments entrusted with the privileged task of guarding the Sovereign.” I will stick with my Americanized versions however.
Luciano Barbera has a humorous new blog. Though I don’t know if the man himself is writing it, it’s very well done and is full of great gems:
I would like to add that I would never refer to myself as “stylish.” But my children wanted me to write it so I did. What I would have said is I simply had on the right clothes for the right occasions and didn’t leave them in a crumpled ball at the foot of my bed. If that is style, alright I own to it.
Will from A Suitable Wardrobe has a guest post as well. Hopefully they continue marketing like this.
And on the company’s new website, he also shares some wisdom:
The suit – You do not need me to tell you that the suit is the key element in any gentleman’s wardrobe. So I will tell you a story instead. I had my first suit made for me when I was 24, by the legendary Milanese tailor, Mario Pozzi. It took Mr. Pozzi 6 months to go through the process of fitting me and taking all my measurements. Then he cut the fabric, a beautiful saxony cloth, and personally delivered it to my door. When I tried it on, he and I were both very pleased. Why wouldn’t I be? He was a genius. I was also eager to get back into my street clothes but he gave me this advice. “Put the suit on and keep it on. Wear it for two days straight. Eat in it. Sleep in it. Then it will not just be an exquisite suit. Sarà un tuo vestito – it will be your suit”.
The shirt – I know I have said you can have too many clothes. But I take that back where shirts are concerned. The shirt is a triumph of modern life, like the automobile or the web.
It is easy to put on and take off, quick to wash and easy to store. Plus, shirts look great. A man should own as many shirts as he wishes – the more the better.
I personally have so many shirts that I sometimes walk into my closet, pull one out, and think to myself, “Now where did that come from?” Having lots of shirts will allow you to surprise yourself with your own good taste.Seasonal – Everyone knows you wear wool in the winter, linen in the summer, and a straw hat from June 15th to Labor Day. Everyone is right. And therein lies the problem. Follow these rules and you will look like everyone else. Better that you display a little originality. On the gravest days of winter I put on my gray flannels, a cashmere tie in a sober color and my white linen jacket. The pants keep me warm. The tie gains me entrée into good restaurants. The blazer reminds me that summer will come again.
Mr. Luciano Barbera
With Oi Polloi’s recent sale, the USA flag patterned belt from Engineered Garments that I’ve been eyeing all season came down to a price that I was willing to pay for and it arrived just yesterday afternoon, only six days after placing the order. It’s a really fun piece and the webbing and leather tips seem like they’re high quality.
Made in the USA. I wonder who the manufacturer is?
Note that Oi Polloi’s measurements for the belt are off on their website (the large I have is actually 47″ as opposed to the 43.5″ that it is listed), and I probably could have gone with a medium instead. Tucking the end in will do just fine however.
They still have a full size run of these available – if you order one right now, it might just get to you in time for the 4th of July.
I just came across some interesting pairs of Tricker’s on Starling where the laces have been replaced with elastic. It also does not look like they added heel counters, allowing for some flexibility in the back of the shoe for ease in putting them on. They probably would have looked much better with single leather soles though.
P.G. Wodehouse, the original literature humorist (as far as I’m concerned). Among his large collection of stories, the ones which feature the character of Jeeves are my favorite. Some excerpts from the first chapter…
On inappropriate dinner atire:
‘I was at one time in Lord Worplesdon’s employment. I tendered my resignation because I could not see eye to eye with his lordship in his desire to dine in dress trousers, a flannel shirt, and a shooting coat.’
On polishing shoes:
‘I beg your pardon, sire. I was endeavoring to find you.’
‘What’s the matter?’
‘I felt that I should tell you, sir, that somebody has been putting black polish on our brown walking shoes.’
‘What! Who? Why?’
‘I could not say, sir.’
‘Can anything be done with them?’
‘Nothing, sir.’
‘Damn!’
‘Very good, sir.’
On the topic of an awful looking suit:
‘Oh, Jeeves,’ I said; ‘about that check suit.’
‘Yes, sir?’
‘Is it really a frost?’
‘A triffle too bizarre, sir, in my opinion.’
‘But lots of fellows have asked me who my tailor is.’
‘Doubtless in order to avoid him, sir.’
‘He’s supposed to be one of the best men in London.’
‘I am saying nothing against his moral character, sir.’
‘All right, Jeeves,’ I said. ‘You know! Give the bally thing away to somebody!’
‘Thank you, sir. I gave it to the under-gardener last night. A little more tea, sir?’
Some of the stories were also adapted into an excellent TV series, simply named “Jeeves and Wooster.” A previous post on the show: Jeeves Disapproves
Modified Pimm’s Cup
2oz Pimm’s #1
6oz Ginger Ale
Serve over ice in Duralex glassware and garnish with a lemon slice.
Death in the Afternoon
2oz Absinthe
Cheap Champagne
Or as Hemingway put it: “Pour one jigger absinthe into a Champagne glass. Add iced Champagne until it attains the proper opalescent milkiness. Drink three to five of these slowly.”
No Olive Martini
2oz Gin
0.5oz Dry Vermouth
Shake with ice in a mixer and serve in a martini glass with a lemon peel garnish.
A vintage Paul Stuart tie with a linen fedora and pocket square from Engineered Garments. When I have the time later, I’ll take a few more shots of the tie which has an exceptionally thick lining – they sure don’t make them like this anymore.
From the late 1940’s. Common hat models were the Stetsonian, the Diplomat, the Vogue, and the Casual.
