Culture | Mister Crew

July 12, 2010

Aubercy’s Button Boots

New in at Leffot, button boots from Aubercy. They’re about as unique as they are arcane, and these types of boots are nowadays only produced by small manufacturers due to their niche demand. If you’d like to see a visual guide of how to use a button hook, Japanese store Otsuka has a pictorial.

Here’s another modern pair from J.M. Weston, once featured in the now defunct Last magazine:
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They were much more common during the 19th century, but slowly fell out of favor as laced boots and oxfords became more accepted in fashion circles. Even then shoemakers were always trying to come up with different methods to make them easier to put on.

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Below, an illustration of a shoe laster working on a pair of button boots. From Harper’s Magazine, 1885.

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On the left, Ernest Shackleton wearing button boots with formal wear.

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July 11, 2010

Twain Says What He Meant

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The NYTimes has an article on the upcoming first volume of the autobiography of Mark Twain. The papers have been locked away for the past 100 years (previously only being available to researchers) and were recorded in the last four years before his death in 1910 – instead of writing it himself, he paid someone to copy down his thoughts on a wide array of subjects thinking it would be more entertaining for readers.

Wry and cranky, droll and cantankerous — that’s the Mark Twain we think we know, thanks to reading “Huck Finn” and “Tom Sawyer” in high school. But in his unexpurgated autobiography, whose first volume is about to be published a century after his death, a very different Twain emerges, more pointedly political and willing to play the role of the angry prophet…

…About literary figures of his time, however, Twain has relatively little to say. He dislikes Bret Harte, whom he dismisses as “always bright but never brilliant”; offers a sad portrait of an aged and infirm Harriet Beecher Stowe; and lavishly praises his friend William Dean Howells. He reserved criticism of novelists whose work he disliked (Henry James, George Eliot) for his letters.

Critics, though, are another story. “I believe that the trade of critic, in literature, music, and the drama, is the most degraded of all trades, and that it has no real value,” Twain writes. “However, let it go,” he adds. “It is the will of God that we must have critics, and missionaries, and Congressmen, and humorists, and we must bear the burden.”

Continue reading more. The first volume is available for preorder on Amazon for just under $20.

July 10, 2010

The Playboy Club

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A fun history read on the first Playboy Club in Chicago:

February 29, 1960 was a historic day for Chicago and the world. Playboy magazine owner Hugh Hefner decided that Leap Year would be an appropriate time for him to open up the world’s first Playboy Club on Walton Street in the Gold Coast. The club, having hired from the local talent pool, provided the first appearance of the Playboy Bunnies. These Bunnies, with their satin corsets, bunny ears and fluffy white tails served those fortunate enough to be “Keyholders” in the style of the old gaslight clubs. As VIPs of the club, Keyholders could enter the club at anytime and indulge in an atmosphere filled with music, alcohol and nubile women. The flagship Chicago location was so successful in its inaugural year that, it not only become the busiest club in the world, but it was also the first of 40 locations – each being referred to by Newsweek as a “Disneyland for adults.”

Back in the 50’s and 60’s, Playboy wasn’t just porn – it was a lifestyle brand for the mid-century American man.

Further reading on The Selvedge Yard: Iconic Branding of a Bunny Kind

Heffner was gifted with an ironic stroke of fate when the original “Stag Club” name that was going to grace his new men’s magazine was legally blocked by Stag magazine. He needed a new handle, and the stag was soon converted to the now iconic bunny, in a historic and innuendo-laden rename. Playboy later ran a pictorial article on Chicago’s Gaslight Club, and was overwhelmed by thousands of readers requesting to join this exclusive key members club. Playboy execs smelled a golden opportunity, and soon plans were laid to open their own private key holder’s club. All that was needed now was the vision.

July 8, 2010

Tony Wilding

“Anthony ‘Tony’ Frederick Wilding (October 31, 1883 in Christchurch, New Zealand – May 9, 1915 near Neuve-Chapelle, Pas-de-Calais, France) was a champion tennis player and a soldier killed in action during World War I. He was the co-World No. 1 in 1911 and 1912 and the World No. 1 player in 1913. Pete Sampras was the first person to break his record across multiple Wimbledon wins in doubles, singles and mixed doubles.”

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“He was a keen motorcycle (with sidecar) rider with many long trips in Europe, New Zealand and America. In 1908 he won a gold medal in a reliability trial from Land’s End to John o’ Groats. Several ‘mighty rides’ (Myers) in Europe in 1910 included London to Lake Geneva and back, some 3000 miles (4800 km), including 350 miles (560 km) from Evian to Paris in one day.”

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Sources: Wikipedia, anthonywilding.com

July 8, 2010

Free & Easy’s Jacket Run

Taking inspiration from the latest tweed runs, Free & Easy came up with a “Jacket Run” version for summer in their July issue where they focus on using lighter fabrics. Lots of great classic bikes and accessories are included.

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jacket_run_02 Read more

July 4, 2010

The American Look, 1958

An old video on midcentury design in America – many icons from Eames, Saarinen, and Mies van der Rohe have cameos (among others). Via BoingBoing.

Part 2, Part 3

July 3, 2010

Weekly Roundup

Some things from last week that you might have missed if you’re not following me on twitter:

– Shorpy has put together a fun gallery of digitally colorized black and white photos. Pictured above, Birth of the American Flag – and the original version.

– Legion, Coggles, Blackbird, Mohawk, and Stuart & Wright have started their seasonal sales.

– End Clothing has posted some pictures from their Pitti buying trip. Includes some peeks at next year’s collections from Engineered Garments, Yuketen, Nigel Cabourn, and more.

– From the NYTimes, there’s a good profile on the man behind Best Made Co. and an opinion piece on the wimp effect in men’s fashion.

– Billy Reid needs a new pair of shoes.

June 29, 2010

Take Ivy Reissue Previews

Previews of the translated Take Ivy reissue are now showing up on the web from some lucky folks who were able to get their hands on advance copies, The Trad being one of them (they also talked him into doing a quick youtube video for it too – nice shirt tintin).

In addition, powerHouse books put up some images of the new version along with another video showing it off on their facebook page.

The rest of us will have to wait for another month or so until they start shipping, but until then you can always check out the Trad’s scans of the Japanese version.

June 27, 2010

Summer Reading

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P.G. Wodehouse, the original literature humorist (as far as I’m concerned). Among his large collection of stories, the ones which feature the character of Jeeves are my favorite. Some excerpts from the first chapter…

On inappropriate dinner atire:

‘I was at one time in Lord Worplesdon’s employment. I tendered my resignation because I could not see eye to eye with his lordship in his desire to dine in dress trousers, a flannel shirt, and a shooting coat.’

On polishing shoes:

‘I beg your pardon, sire. I was endeavoring to find you.’
‘What’s the matter?’
‘I felt that I should tell you, sir, that somebody has been putting black polish on our brown walking shoes.’
‘What! Who? Why?’
‘I could not say, sir.’
‘Can anything be done with them?’
‘Nothing, sir.’
‘Damn!’
‘Very good, sir.’

On the topic of an awful looking suit:

‘Oh, Jeeves,’ I said; ‘about that check suit.’
‘Yes, sir?’
‘Is it really a frost?’
‘A triffle too bizarre, sir, in my opinion.’
‘But lots of fellows have asked me who my tailor is.’
‘Doubtless in order to avoid him, sir.’
‘He’s supposed to be one of the best men in London.’
‘I am saying nothing against his moral character, sir.’
‘All right, Jeeves,’ I said. ‘You know! Give the bally thing away to somebody!’
‘Thank you, sir. I gave it to the under-gardener last night. A little more tea, sir?’

Some of the stories were also adapted into an excellent TV series, simply named “Jeeves and Wooster.” A previous post on the show: Jeeves Disapproves

June 27, 2010

Summer Drinks

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Modified Pimm’s Cup
2oz Pimm’s #1
6oz Ginger Ale

Serve over ice in Duralex glassware and garnish with a lemon slice.

Death in the Afternoon
2oz Absinthe
Cheap Champagne

Or as Hemingway put it: “Pour one jigger absinthe into a Champagne glass. Add iced Champagne until it attains the proper opalescent milkiness. Drink three to five of these slowly.”

No Olive Martini
2oz Gin
0.5oz Dry Vermouth

Shake with ice in a mixer and serve in a martini glass with a lemon peel garnish.

Mister Crew

A collection of things on men's clothing and culture

Category: Culture (page 14 of 27)