Now available online – there are several new designs this season to complement the mainstays and the reversible Brookline quilted jacket (with polka dots), the snowflake shawl knit jacket, and down body vest will be ones to look out for.
Update: Nepenthes.co.jp now has a higher-res version.
A few items can be previewed over on the Nepenthes Osaka store blog as well as on flickr in sets from Très Bien Shop and End Clothing.
And now Très Bien has begun to upload pictures of their trip to Pitti Uomo 80. Along with Bruce Pask’s reports, these are always a great way to get a peak at what’s next for upcoming seasons – my favorite so far is this (reversible?) camo sportcoat from Engineered Garments. Update: looks like some pictures have been removed.
The guys from FrenchTrotters recently published a great video of their trip to Pitti – it’s worth a watch if you’ve been following coverage and is probably the best piece of visual media I’ve seen from this season’s show.
Reports from Bruce Pask, in two parts:
Woolrich Woollen Mills, showing for the first time at Pitti in parent company WP Lavori in Corso’s brand new pavilion, featured shockingly vibrant African tribal printed camp shirts, scarves and neckties paired with khaki trousers and safari-style jackets. The designer Mark McNairy capped one look with an olive canvas and mesh bucket hat cleverly reminiscent of a Pith helmet, but was actually inspired by the signature headgear of J.J. from the TV series “Good Times.” The collection was absolutely “Dy-no-mite,” as J.J. would say.
At Pitti, Innovation and Inspiration
Engineered Garments, another show favorite, did an amazing group of polka-dotted clothing that played with size and scale. Cotton sport jackets, shirts, shorts, pants and ties — in differing sizes of dots, in bold navy and white or a more quiet, chic khaki and white — can be combined for bold, strong looks or worn separately as accent pieces. Make mine a combo, please.
Made to celebrate the opening of the new Post O’alls store in Tokyo. More info and pictures.
While Seattle skipped spring this year, summer is showing up and I’ve been able to start wearing more of my lightweight jackets from Engineered Garments made from NYCO poplin (abbreviation for nylon and cotton). For hot weather, it is a great fabric that breathes easily, is quick to dry when wet, and is very durable against general wear and tear – so much that even certain NYCO fabrics are used in military uniforms.
Back to Engineered Garments, they made several pieces with it this season – the CPO shirts, Explorer Jackets, and Type 1 pants. Past season items include the mountain parka and pathfinder jackets. If you’re looking for summer outerwear, consider giving one a shot.
New for Spring/Summer 11, the Engineered Garments explorer jacket is back for a second season in a lightweight but durable poplin (long time fans might remember the same fabric being used for jackets in the Spring/Summer 08 collection). The fit is similar to last season’s, and I’m already looking forward to the warmer weather that it will be ideal for.
Rainy day shots in Seattle:
More pictures available on Silver & Gold, Doo-Bop, Context, and the Nepenthes NYC blog.
Some things that you might have missed if you’re not following me on twitter:
* J.Crew has picked up some Seil Marchall bags to add to their growing list of 3rd party products. The Spring/Summer 11 lookbook has also been released.
* Pictures of Victim’s Spring/Summer 2011 collection are now available.
* Tailoring house Anderson & Sheppard has an interesting blog going which follows the work of many of the apprentices.
* Imogene+Willie has a new online shop.
* End Clothing has a preview of a few SS11 items from Universal Works on its flickr page.
* Très Bien and Pete Anderson visit NYC.
* The WSJ recently had an article on those small shirt collars. The truth is that they suck because you can’t get a good roll out of them.
* Engineered Garments FWK Spring Summer 2011 pictures have been released.
* Pictures of SS11 collections for the other Nepenthes brands are also now on its website.
* More importantly, Bond 23 is back on schedule for release in 2012.
* Bruce Pask again has an excellent writeup for the NYTimes on most of the brands I was interested in. Likewise, Khabi on Fashion Buyer UK has also shared his thoughts on what was shown.
* Men’s Mentore had some great coverage with lots of pictures. Oddly the only highlight for me are those floral print squares from Hill-Side.
* Fashionising has published a list of observations they made about some of the lines and on the show in general.
* Get ready for some small price hikes. WWD also had an article on this:
Eric Jennings, vice president and fashion director of men’s for Saks Fifth Avenue, said that after holding off for a couple of seasons due to the recession, men want to replace holes in their wardrobe, whether for suits or sportswear. Among the main challenges for the sector, however, are the price hikes instituted by vendors following steep increases on raw materials and piece goods, many of which have risen by up to 30 percent. “I think the vendors are very cognizant of [the situation] and will partner with us, and we won’t get sticker shock this season, but it’s a huge factor,” he said.
* Nigel Cabourn continues to do his thing. The Brady bags look great, but the Eddie Baeur collection feels off in that none of the pieces look like anything Eddie Baeur has ever made (not in a good way). On mention of which, when is Eddie Baeur going to get its act together and come out with a line based on its archival pieces?
* Très Bien Shop has posted pictures of their trip to their flickr account. Lots of previews of favorite brands are shown.
* In continuing the race to market his name into the ground, Barbour premiered its new Steve McQueen collection. Like the previously branded clothing line which nobody bought, some elements of it are pretty naff. Yes, he’s an icon, but screenprinting his image on the inside of your riding jacket is going a bit too far.
Pictured above, FW11 preview images from ts(s) and below, Engineered Garments.
The folks at Nepenthes have just uploaded the lookbook for the Engineered Garments Spring/Summer 2011 collection, go check it out. In some ways it feels like a developed continuation of the SS09 collection with a focus on subtle palettes.
Highlights for me include the explorer jacket in poplin, the trench in cotton twill, and the floral print ghurka shorts. I’m also looking forward to seeing more of the shirts over the next few weeks after shipments make their way out to stores.
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